The Entrée of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris with the imitated façade of the house on Avenue Montaigne, where even today atelier and flagshipstore of Dior are located: Bonjour, Christian Dior!

As a teenager, I was enthusiastic about “Miss Dior”, a fragrance that Christian Dior launched as the first perfume of Dior in 1947. My godmother gave me the perfume classic for my 16th birthday. My first luxury accessory, which flowery note I still have in my nose today. At the moment the Christian Dior exhibition “Couturier du Rêve”, which not only reminds of the perfume history of Dior, is running in Paris. The exhibition is devoted to the life and work of the haute couture master, whose empire turned 70 years on July 5.

Christian Dior loved the opulence, both in the interior and in his clothes creations

For me it was clear to go to Paris: This show cannot be missed as an art and fashion affine person. I had heard from friends that endless visitors were winding around the northern part of the Louvre, where more than 300 haute couture robes from seven decades were displayed in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on 3,000 square meters. With my online ticket, I quickly passed the queue, into an exhibition that took me for hours on a spectacular journey through the decades of French luxury.

The garden theme with dresses by different Dior designers in floral prints and applications. The pink bustier dress (center) is a creation by Christian Dior, left Raf Simons, to the right Maria Grazia Chiuri

A retrospective of the history of one of the most important couture houses with personal letters and photos – also unpublished private photographs of Christian Dior, first fashion drawings and designs, campaign pictures and videos, accessories such as bags, shoes, jewelery and the legendary perfume bottles. The exhibition, which is divided into various conceptual spaces on themes such as the “flower dreams”, the “boudoir” or the “great evening gown”, begins with the collection debut of Christian Dior in 1947.

“Diablesse”: Red dress of Christian Dior’s collection debut in 1947

In addition to the partial robes of the great master, who died of a heart attack in 1957 at only 52 in southern France, the show also presents the successors of Dior. In the same year, his former assistant Yves Saint Laurent took over the fashion space that had been successfully established for a decade. He was followed by Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and today’s chief designer Maria Grazia Chiuri. “Couturier du Rêve” is a tribute to one of the greatest fashion creators of all times, the legacy of Christian Dior, which impressively shows how the brand has influenced the fashion industry and the culture for decades. I am impressed. J’adore Dior.  BvH

A retrospective of the history of one of the most important couture houses with personal letters and photos – also unpublished private photographs of Christian Dior

About Christian Dior

Born in Normandy in 1905, Dior, who wanted to become an architect, began as a gallerist in Paris with financial support from his father, an industrialist. Due to the insolvency of his father’s company as a result of the global economic crisis in 1931, Dior first designed hat fashion for the fashion supplement of the newspaper Le Figaro and finally modèces for Parisian haute couture fashion houses. The fashion designer Robert Piguet drew attention to Dior and engaged the talented painter and draftsman in 1938. After the Second World War, Dior received from the wealthy textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac 60 million francs as starting capital for the establishment of the Haute Couture house Christian Dior. In the same year he moved his studio to the elegant Avenue Montaigne in Paris, where the Dior flagship store still is today. The first fashion collection, presented by Dior in February 1947, was a sensation and was celebrated by American journalists as “The New Look”. After the scanty, simple ladies’ wear of the war years, Dior created a narrow waist, figurative tops, wide, opulent skirts of noble materials, combined with elegant wagon-wheel hats and long gloves. Critics criticized the lavish use of scarce resources and a return to antiquated fashion in times of emancipating women, but Dior’s influence was considerable: Quickly his high-priced haute couture designs were copied from the mass market.

Black-and-white fashion photographs showing Dior models

With every season Dior presented a new ‘look’, always cheered by the fashion industry and the wealthy customers. The calyx-line was followed by the dome-, lily of the valley-, the pencil-, H-, A- and Y-lines. Dior’s creations contributed significantly to making Paris a fashion capital.

With numerous worldwide licenses – including perfumes – Dior built up an empire within a few years. He was considered reserved, shy, and humble, and felt uncomfortable in public affairs in society. His homosexuality was not addressed in the public at that time. In October 1957 Christian Dior died, presumably due to a heart attack. He was one of the most internationally renowned fashion designers and left a mark that was successfully developed under his successors.

One theme of the exhibition is devoted to the development of Dior perfumes – including their elaborate flacons

Tip:

Book your ticket for the exhibition online. This avoids waiting for hours. You need patience anyway, because there is a great deal of excitement in front of the individual exhibition pieces. Therefore also be cautious of pickpockets (living without my beloved cashmere scarf ever since). Plan sufficient time: It took me four hours to look at the exhibition.

So beautiful: On the left a design by Christian Dior from 1956, to the right of his successor Yves Saint Laurent from the year 1960

Info Christian Dior Exhibition:

The world’s largest Dior exhibition „Couturier du Rêve“  runs until the 7th of January 2018 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Christian Dior, who wanted to become an architect, began as a gallerist in Paris

He first designed hat fashion for the fashion supplement of the newspaper Le Figaro and finally modèces for Parisian haute couture fashion houses

One dress more beautiful than the other

Personalities such as the English Princess Margaret (Foto), Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Lady Diana were dressed by the traditional house

Today, Jennifer Lawrence, Natalie Portman and Rihanna are among the fans of the Dior brand

Here are the designs by John Galliano (far back) and Raf Simons (middle) with a reminiscence of Christian Dior’s predilection for opulence

This part of the exhibition is devoted to colors: Accessories and clothing in white …

… black-and-white …

… Gray … and elaborately designed mini models, which show the respective design already in detail

… Orange …

… Red …

… Purple …

… in all nuances and shades …

… Blue …

… and Black

“Parfum is the finishing touch to any dress.”

One of my favorite gowns

Lush embroided evening peeptoe

And always John Galliano ..

… who fascinates me with his imaginative creations as here on the topic of the Far East. To the right a design by Christian Dior

John Galliano: “Thamar” and “Shéhérazade”, Spring-Summer 1998

The Garden topic in rose variations

… and Dior’s lily-of-the-valley line (far back) interpreted by his successors

This filigree embroidered floral gown is designed by Raf Simons

And once again John Galliano: Beyond beautiful, isn’t it?

On a journey with imperishable fashion from all Dior decades

Dior on the titles of international high-gloss magazines: “The photographs and drawings published in the magazines often present me with an entirely new light on my creations.”

They shaped the heritage of Christian Dior and represent the further development of the Dior style: Yves Saint Laurent

Marc Bohan

Gianfranco Ferré

John Galliano

Raf Simons

Maria Grazia Chiuri

“I wanted my dresses to be moulded to the contours of the female body.”

Atelier atmosphere with designs, which are first made of white nettle, which is demonstrated in this part of the exhibition of seamstresses

At the end of the exhibition, the real highlight is the spectacular presentation of a staging of lush elegance, light and sound installation. For this room alone one should plan half an hour

MyStylery in action – the world’s largest Dior exhibition “Couturier du Rêve” runs until the 7th of January 2018 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris

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At Frankie’s it looks like in a museum. Here however, touching, trying and buying is desired and allowed

One of my favorite things is tracking down originally Shops – especially when traveling through different cities. Wandering through the streets, stroll and discover small, individual shops, has always been a special charm to me. For Munich I will tell you two of my favorite addresses: both unique in their range and thus true secrets for collectors and enthusiasts of selected vintage pieces.

The motto of Frankie: things of yesterday for today and tomorrow

In the trendy Pinakothekenviertel I strolled across the Theresienstraße and ended up in Frankie’s Shop. Frankie is an enthusiastic collector who – instead of renting another storehouse – opened his shop on the Theresienstraße in 2011. Here the convinced Frank Sinatra fan presents everything from antique chandeliers to furniture and home accessories from the 30s to 70s a hodgepodge of curiosities and design objects. A real treasure trove!

Between kitsch and art

For passionate fashionistas like me the thrift boutique Vintage Love is one of the top addresses by the Isar. Inge Grandl and Dominique Trowe show on 160 square meters lovingly selected individual pieces, fashion and accessories from 1950 to today. “With us you will find the complete Brigitte Bardot outfit up to glamorous evening gowns by Valentino, Chanel and Pucci,” says founder Inge Grandl, once Munich nightlife icon of the clubs P1 and Park Café, who today, together with daughter Dominique, offers a wide range of ball gowns, evening and cocktail dresses, matching bags, shoes and belts for their customers.

Immersing in the world of stars and the glamor of the 50s, 60s and 70s: At Vintage Love this is possible

My personal tip is the Dirndls by Vintage Love that Inge Grandl manufactures from old materials. Each one a tailored piece and therefore unique. Who hurries can even now get hold of one of these unique pieces. Because in winter there is a Dirndl break at Vintage Love. The space is needed for coats, jackets and vests. Not until the next June the Dirndl season is running again. Then you can choose between traditional and original Dirndls including precious brocade, velvet and silk. “Vintage translates to choosing and is originally from the picking,” explains Dominique Trowe. “Vintage Love is the love of the elected, the love to the specific and to detail.” – Right.  BvH

Vintage Love attaches great importance to exclusivity and uniqueness: This Dirndl is tooled with old lace and back embroidery – it’s a singleton

Pink roses on a black ground: I bought my favorite Dirndl some years ago at Vintage Love

Dirndl Love

Frankie on Munich’s Theresienstraße: A real treasure trove!

From noble walking sticks …

… to plush teddy bears …

… classic 40s and 50s lamps …

… and the good old vinyl record:

There is nothing that is not there!

Kitsch and Art

“Many individual items and design objects wait to be discovered and driven into the big world”, says Frankie

You have to look closely to see everything

Aw, I would really like to have the antique towel rack! For each thing its own towel: There must be order!

Contacts

www.frankie-muenchen.de

www.vintageandmore.de

The post In Love with Vintage Love appeared first on My Stylery.

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Gerhard Gössl in the entrance of his Gwandhaus in Salzburg. Gössl is the world’s largest garb manufacturer in the premium segment

The man wears garb. Principally. This is not really surprising as he’s well placed: Gerhard Gössl is the world’s biggest noble garb manufacturer and therefore an expert for dirndl, cardigans and lederhosen. Since the 80s Gössl leads his company, which was founded 1947 by his parents in Salzburg, with discipline and consequence. Mother Grete – a laundry maker from Thuringia – and father Leopold focused on production of blouses.

Once manor of the archbishops, later hotel, since 2005 Gössl’s comanpy-central: the Gwandhaus in Salzburg

Nowadays the traditional company clothes with 40 stores and over 100 outlets in Germany, Austria and South Tirol from head to toe. Thereby Gössl attaches special importance in quality: lots of pieces are handmade, with lots of love for detail. “Into every dirndl, whose bodices are processed with baleen, we sew a luck-penny”, explains the manufacturer.

Visitors of the festival ‘Salzburger Festspiele’ love to wear garps and Gössl dresses the whole family. Classically, of course.

A Gössl-dirndl suits – perfect. What are you looking at first, if you meet a dirndl-wearer? “At the whole presence and how the woman moves in the dirndl”, says Gössl and laughs. Yes, he’s conservative and tradition is from importance. Not just some fast-paced trend.

“The fabric of a so-called blue-print dirndl is created by a special printing process: first, the bright linen or cotton fabric is printed with a protective ground, then dyed blue with indigo.”

“The special feature of our brand is the differentiation and the genuineness, which is also much appreciated by our young clients”, says the studied economist. As keeper of the original he’s against trash and so-called fantasy-dirndl: “They’re only medial big. A temporarily appearance”, states Gössl. “The classical garb therefore survived because it creates identity.”

The historical part of the Gwandhaus, a baroqueized renaissance-construction

Cultivating this identity of architecture, language and garb is Gössl from huge importance. In 2000 he purchases the former castle hotel St. Rupert in Salzburg, renovated and expanded the baroqueized renaissance-construction, which since then is called ‘Gwandhaus’. Austrian – without the ‘e’. “The word Gwand is the original word for garb.”

The Gwandhaus offers beside its magnificent views culinary, culture, the biggest handmade archive, historical costumes and a garp shop

Since the middle age the hall-type exhibition- or warehouses of this cloth industry are called Gewandhaus or Tuchhalle. There, the dressmakers sold cloth. Today, the beautiful estate serves as headquarter of the company, tailor shop, restaurant, but also a room for events and cultural meetings: a place for all senses.

The studio: Here the visitors can watch as the dirndl are tailored

There Gössl occupies 60 employees, five designers create 20 different dirndl per season. Furthermore the atelier is a kind of stage and the ‘Gwandhaus’-visitor can see how the dirndl are being needled and they can deepen into the history of handcraft in the worldwide biggest handwork archive. Some time ago Karl Lagerfeld came by and had an intensive look around. Apparently he was impressed: the actual Chanel-collection is one garb look, an adaption and at most homage to the original. “Everyone should wear what he likes”, means Gerhard Gössl. “Our classics are not for a season, they do also stand for the whole live.” BvH

When Archduke Johann of Austria married the Postmaster-daughter Anna Plochl in 1829, it was a marriage against all courtly resistors. “The Anna Plochl wedding dirndl is manufactured today by the original presentation and enjoys still great popularity,” said Gerhard Gössl about the embossed timeless elegance wedding dirndl.

“You can automatically see whether a woman feels comfortable in her dirndl or not. Being able to wear it will be a benefit.”

Gössl’s ultimate styling tips:

1. Never wear nylon stockings with a dirndl
2. Dirndl and high heels counted as “no go”. Today it’s okay.
3. What counts as chic in Bavaria is in Austria scorned: the underskirt belongs under the dress and should not be visible.
4. A dirndl has to fit perfectly. Too tight dirndls apply as unmistakably message.
5. Be careful with the loop of the apron: the loop tied on the right side means ‘in a relationship’ or ‘married’. Left means ‘single’, centrically stands for ‘virgin’. Only widows – or waitresses – wear their loops on the back. Not only during the ‘Salzburger Festspiele’.

Gerhard Gössl explains the difference between a sevenfold seam lederhose and a Styrian, which has no seams but stitching of classical motifs such as deer or chamois

“The imperial house and the aristocracy oriented themselves during their stays in Ischl at the clothing of the rural population. This is why the Austrian garb compared to the Bavarian is much more discreet.”

Of course Gössl also offers decorative accessories for the perfect look

The antique fireplace from the 19th century shows the coat of arms of the crown countries of Austria’s imperial and royal monarchy

Gössl is the biggest noble garb manufacturer and therefore an expert for dirndl, cardigans and lederhosen

Wonderful view: from the Gwandhaus one glances on the Berchtesgadener mountains with Watzmann (2,713 metres) and Hohe Göll (2,522 metres)

Best address for garps and dirndl – not only for the visitors of ‘Salzburger Festspiele’: The Gwandhaus

Contact Gerhard Gössl:

Gwandhaus
Morzger Straße 31
5020 Salzburg, Österreich

www.gwandhaus.com
www.goessl.com

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