No question about it: The historic buildings with their lush gold decor around the Brussels Town Hall are one of a kind

Perhaps it was because of my previous visit to beautiful Bruges, or perhaps simply because of a romantically transfigured memory of a visit to Brussels 25 years ago: My current encounter with Europe’s capital disappointed me at first. Only on the second day my mood brightened up, which was due to the fact that I discovered the trendy districts Saint Gilles and Ixelles.

Palais du Roi: At home with the King…

But first my impression of day one: Normally there are numerous cafés and restaurants around Place Jourdan in front of my hotel Sofitel, where you can sit outside. If it weren’t for the current major construction site. In the opposite brasserie “L’Esprit de Sel” – a recommendation of the hotel concierge – I ate a very moderate goat cheese salad and Belgian meatballs and I wondered to what extent grey building rubble and unspeakable noise influence the quality of a meal or even the basic mood of the cook? After all, the next morning I was compensated with a good breakfast in the “Or Espresso Bar”. Here the young avant-garde sits above their computers and enjoys the supposedly best coffee in town. I tasted the freshly baked sourdough bread with homemade jam and an organic Earl Grey before I went to the Atomium by metro. Not original, but a must see for every visitor to Brussels.

The Atomium and I

Back in the city centre. My tour started at the church Saint Cathérine at the square of the same name, around which nice restaurants invite for lunch. Then I went to the adjacent boulevard Antoine Dansaert, where, according to my travel guide, the chic boutiques of Belgian designers are located. Nope. Apart from the “A Suivre” boutique with the brands Vanessa Bruno, Barbara Bui, Joseph, Isabel Marant and some Belgian designers, grey dreariness was the order of the day. I went all the way to the stock exchange, where, in view of the dubious figures around the Place de Bourse, I preferred to quickly find my way around. Neither the Grand Place with its baroque gilded facades and the impressive town hall nor Manneken Pis could really fascinate me. Not to mention the alleys around it with junk shops and rip-off restaurants. Passing the Place du Grand Sablon, the Royal Library and the Royal Palace Palais du Roi, I landed in the Parc de Bruxelles, where I finally had the feeling of being able to breathe again.

Green lung of Brussels: Parc de Bruxelles

Brussels – and this is not really surprising – is dominated by Europe, its policies and its diplomats. Modern skyscrapers, in which the European Committee is housed, dominate an entire quarter, the Quartier Européen. If this is your first visit to Brussels, you should check it out.

House of the European Commission

Day two: My personal highlight were the districts Ixelles and Saint Gilles. My way to get there was along the Boulevard de Waterloo, where all renowned labels and luxury boutiques present themselves, from Prada to Chanel and Gucci. From there the street leads into Avenue Louise, where cheaper brands like Zara, Tommy Hilfiger or my new favourite label Essentiel-Antwerp are represented. I have seen original, individual shops and boutiques on the Rue du Bailli and Rue Africaine, around the church Saint Trinité in the middle of Ixelles. A district where many facades bear witness to the splendour of the Belle Epoque or are still waiting to be restored to their full beauty. My goal was to visit the Horta-Museum, once the home of Victor Horta, the creator of Art Nouveau. Good to know: The museum opens from 14.00 to 17.30 and is closed on Mondays. From here you have an ideal starting point to explore the many Art Nouveau facades of Brussels. Just follow the Chaussee de Charleroi and its extension Avenue Brugmann – the demarcation line of the Saint Gilles and Ixelles districts – and drift along its small streets. A highlight of urban elegance and classical architecture is the area around Avenue du Haut Pont, Rue Franz Merjay, Place Brugmann and Avenue Louis Lepoutre.

Dreamy Brussels: The Saint Gilles and Ixelles hoods

Here, in the Rue Franz Merjay, I stopped by the small bistro “Chez Franz” and ordered a goat cheese salad. This time it tasted delicious, including the oven-warm baguette served with it. Madame Danielle, an elegant, communicative Brussels-based, sitting at the next table, explained the spirit of her city to me and gave me wonderful tips for the rest of the day. So I strolled along the perhaps most beautiful promenade in Brussels, the Etangs d’Ixelles, situated on two long ponds. On the way there I made a detour through the small, enchanted park Tenbosch. Almost reminiscent of an exotic biotope, this green oasis turned out to be a real insider tip. Am I really in the middle of a pulsating big city, I thought to myself and enjoyed the moment. Brussels, a city of contrasts. BvH

A good breakfast is served in the „Or Espresso Bar“

The Atomium was the main pavilion at 1958 World’s Fair. Engineer André Waterkeyn and the architects André and Jean Polak were responsible for the design of Brussels landmark building

Brussels Town Hall: Even on rainy days a tourist magnet

Beautiful garden at the Royal Library of Belgium

Label to watch: Essentiel Antwerp

Around Place Saint Cathérine nice restaurants invite for lunch

An eyecatcher: Boutique “A Suivre” on Boulevard Antoine Dansaert

Around the Saint Trinité church, Rue du Bailli and Rue Africaine original, individual shops and boutiques are situated…

…like the concept store Mellow…

…and the Boutique Bonzai…

Around 1,500 houses in the most beautiful Art Nouveau style can still be admired in Brussels today

Open your eyes: Beautifully restored houses, sometimes reminiscent of English townhouses…

…Art Nouveau pearls with lush decor, little towers, oriels and balustrades…

…and imposing portals

Walking through the districts with watchful eyes…

…you will discover the architectural beauty and diversity of Brussels

Here you can make your credit card glow effortlessly: The Boutique „Cachemire Coton Soie“

Delicious food, nice staff and located in the trendy Saint Gilles area: The Bistro-Restaurant „Chez Franz“…

…where I highly recommend the goat cheese salad. In addition a glass of rosé wine: Santé!

I particularly like the playful facades and gables with the many chimneys, although I only warmed up with Brussels at second glance

More travel stories you can find here.

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Lake Como: Nestled in an impressive mountain landscape and lush, Mediterranean fauna

From the Upper Italian lakes at the southern edge of the Alps, Lake Como is the most beautiful to me. Nestled in an impressive mountain landscape and lush, Mediterranean fauna, Lake Como fascinates with its famous historic villas such as Villa Carlotta and Villa d’Este. They come partly from the 15th century and bear witness to the successful era when the silk industry settled in the region around Como. Around the lake, picturesque villages charm the visitor, here the time seems to have stopped. Pure romance and a charm that also attracts Hollywood: celebrities such as George Clooney, Madonna, Brad Pitt or Donatella Versace have their own holiday residences here.

In Como I walk through the narrow streets

My tour starts by the southern shore of Lake Como with a stroll through the old town of Como. In the Via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Via Indipendenza you will find numerous boutiques with Italian fashion. I walk through the narrow streets until I stand in front of the Como Cathedral, the third-largest cathedral in Lombardy. If you would like to have a view on the splendid cathedral facade, this is best done with an espresso in a Piazza Cavour café opposite the Cathedral.

The Comer cathedral was built from the 14th century and impresses with its filigree exterior façade and inside with precious gobbelins

The next stop along the west bank is called Cernobbio. A must for fans of the art nouveau is a trip to the Villa Bernasconi, a jewel of the Belle Epoque, where today’s exhibitions are shown. Famous is Cernobbio also because of the Villa d’Este, since 1873 a hotel of the luxury class, which was already visited by lot of celebrities. Just because of the garden and the temple, decorated with colorful pebbles mosaic, it is a worthwhile visit. If you are not willing to pay thousands of euros a night in the summer season, perhaps you can enjoy a Bellini at the lake terrace for 23 euros, enjoying the extravagant atmosphere and the sensational view of the turquoise water.

Famous and popular photo motif: Me infront of the temple of the luxury hotel Villa D’Este

We continue northwards to Menaggio. Here the ferry leaves for Varenna and Bellagio, in the summer every 40 minutes. (One car with two persons costs 15.50 euro). Passing the imposing villas, you can reach Bellagio, probably the most famous village on Lake Como, after a 15-minute passage. So famous that even the most popular hotel in Las Vegas is named after it. From the water you can see the elegant, pale yellow facade of Villa Serbelloni, a grand hotel with a beautiful park and a fantastic view of the lake.

Ahoi! On the ferry from Menaggio to Bellagio

I decide to have lunch on and enjoy a glass of rosé, buffalo mozzarella and Parma ham. That’s what Dolce Vita tastes like! Strengthened I now stroll through the Via Guiseppe Garibaldi, explore the winding streets on a hillside and admire the always surprising views of the Lago di Como. From Bellagio I take the SS538 road back to Como. The approx. two-hour route lures again and again with numerous viewpoints: stop, look, marvel.  BvH

Surrounded by lush wisteria: The terrace of the Hotels Florence in Bellagio

Lake Como tip I:

Want to see Lake Como from above? Then go to the small mountain village of Madrona at Monte Bisbone (1,328 meters high) on the west bank above Cernobbio. The course, popular with hikers and bikers, is rewarded with a breathtaking view over Lake Como and – on weekends – with homemade pasta in the Baita Alpe restaurant.

What a view: From the small mountain village Madrona at Monte Bisbone (1.328 Meter hoch) down to Lake Como

Tip II:

June to September are the best months for wind and kite surfing. The mountain world around Lake Como is also a paradise for hikers and mountain bikers.

The Lake Como is the perfect film backdrop. It was shot for Star Wars Episode II, Casino Royale and Ocean’s 12

Tip III:

Caution, penalty card: In Bellagio the car is best at the edge of the city. Parking in the center is expensive. I was asked to pay 140 euros for wrong parking.

Small hotels and restaurants line the shores of Bellagio

Good to know:

Como Lake (in Italian Lago di Como) is one of the eight Upper Italian lakes. “Lario” – as the locals call it – is 146 km², 55 km long and max. 4.2 km wide. Thus, after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore, it is the third-largest lake in Italy. In the center, near the town of Bellagio, the lake divides in a southerly direction into two arms, each ending in the towns of Lecco and Como. The lake looks like a twisted Ypsilon. It is up to 410 meters deep, making it one of the deepest lakes in Europe.

The marina of Como

The Comer cathedral was built from the 14th century and impresses with its filigree exterior façade and inside with precious gobbelins …

… which can also be admired whilst having an espresso in one of the opposite located cafés at Piazza Cavour

Chic shopping in luxury boutiques at the cathedral square

Como’s old town

Great to stroll: In the old town of Como dominate pedestrian zones

Villa Bernasconi in Cernobbio …

… a jewel of the Belle Epoque …

… where today’s exhibitions are shown, like about the history of cashmere

Go swimming in Lake Como:

The luxury hotels around the lake have their own jetties from where you can jump into the green blue water. More tips for public beaches and hidden places can be found here: www.comersee-info.net

Many of the luxurious villas such as the Villa Carlotta or the Villa d’Este date back to the 15th century, when Lake Como became rich with the silk rape and the resulting silk industry

Tip: For Lunch join the terrace of Villa d’Este

We continue northwards to Menaggio

… from where the ferry leaves for Varenna and Bellagio

The elegant, pale yellow facade of Villa Serbelloni …

… with the Grandezza of a Grand Hotel

I love the small streets of Bellagio …

… where I spotted cosy bars …

… and inviting street cafés

A small detour to the cemetery of Bellagio. Arrivederci!

Merken

Merken

Merken

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View from the beach to the awesome skyline of Tel Aviv

Good morning Tel Aviv! I’m looking outside the window, the sun is shining and so I walk to Frishman-beach – directly round the corner of my hotel ‘The Mendeli’ – for a little, refreshing bath in the Mediterranean Sea. The water seems to look so beautifully turquoise, like in the Caribbean. Bathing makes hungry, so I’m going to Café ‘Benedict’, one of Tel Aviv’s hippest breakfast addresses, where you get spoiled 24/7 with delicious egg dishes, freshly baked bread or pancakes and waffles with warm Nutella toppings. It’s recommended to make a reservation in advance to skip the endless seeming queue.

Hot, hot, hot: The Café ‘Benedict’

Well strengthened I’m walking in the direction of Florentin, Tel Aviv’s new artistic neighborhood, which just got discovered by the intellectual scene – an escape from the high rents of the established districts. I’m strolling through Herzel Street – the stronghold of interior stores – turn right to Florentin Street, and drift through the alleys at a felt temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. The heat level rises, my excitement sinks, also because I can’t see what I was expecting to find in Florentin. Only the traders on Levinsky-Street with their small spice shops and the cafes are a discovery, before I keep on running to the original bazar, the ‘Carmel Market’ – , Shuk HaCarmel – in the district Yafo: attraction for tourists as well as shopping source of the Tel Avivians for fruits, vegetables, fish, meat and textiles.

Watch out! Ask for teaspoonwhise measurement of spices

I’m buying herbs at the stand of Mishel Basta. With quick hands he’s filling hummus spices and curry in plastic bags and I was very surprised, when I suddenly found 100 Euros on my bill. My tip: specify the required amount in the measurement of a teaspoon.

Very chic: The restaurant ‘Montefiori’ in the homonymous street

For lunch I try the tip of my fond of travel friend Karen: At ‘Montefiori’ in the street of the same name near the ‘Shalom Tower’ one dines in a very stylish ambient. In the afternoon there’s a special lunch offer for the hip IT audience including an ice tea: not a culinary experience, but therefore very friendly staff and the aircon’ gave its best. Indeed I was pretty happy to carry a scarf with me.

That’s me purchasing spices on the Levinksy Street: Who has the choice, has the torment!

I continue northwards to Tel Aviv Marina, a small yacht harbor directly at the promenade, in direct neighborhood of the big hotels, huge concrete blocks and therefore not a real feast for the eyes. Over the promenade, which is 1.5 kilometers long, one gets to the northern district ‘New Port’, which is especially famous for its water shows on the weekend, the stores, markets and restaurants.

The marina of Tel Aviv and the caribbean blue water – so beautiful!

The sundowner at Frishman beach is a must. It’s best to enjoy the colorful spectacle with cold water or a coke, as the consumption of alcohol is strictly forbidden at the beaches of Israel.

Sunset at the Frishman-Beach – but please only with alcohol-free sundowner!

The nightlife in Tel Aviv can offer a lot. One of the favorite spots of the youngsters of Tel Aviv is the ‚Old Train Station‘ in the mega cool district ‘Neve Tsedek’. Nice restaurants and shops settled down in the stylish, renovated area of the former railway station ‘HaTachana’ in old buildings. Cecilie, who’s currently absorbing an internship in a Start-Up, has the tip of the evening: in the Spanish restaurant ‘Vicky Cristina’ welcomes us Shay, the owner itself and serves delicious tapas. Cecilie’s favorite tapas: fried cheese and the vegan paella, I like the chicken and the mini burger, crowned by a gluten free chocolate cake. It’s best to order several tapas and then exchange them. The wine selection is also great: try an Israeli Rosé from the winery Chateau Golan – you won’t regret it!

At the restaurant ‘Vicky Cristina’ the best tapas in town are served!

Afterwards there’s a very cool bar called ‚Bustan’. It’s right next to the ‚Vicky Cristina‘, where you can have excellent cocktails in the open air and Djs play swinging music. Especially the party ‘Secret Garden’, which takes place every Tuesday from 10:30 pm onwards, is a must. Who’s still in the mood to carry on afterwards should go to the rooftop bar ‘Suramare’, an absolute insider tip. From there one has a view over the vibrant Tel Aviv, over a city of awakening that never sleeps. BvH

Absolute insider tip: Rooftop bar ,Suramare’ with mega views over the city

Hotspot: renovated area of the former railway station ‘HaTachana’ …

… with shops and restaurants in the mega-hipp district ‚Neve Tsedek‘

Okay, what we eat then? In ‘Vicky Cristina’ the menu is studied

The former railway station ‚HaTachana‘

Tips:

Discover the district ‘Florentin’ with a professional:
Guy Sharett from ‘Street Wise Hebrew’ offers an art- and graffiti tour.
Nahalat Binyamin Straße 151

www.streetwisehebrew.com

The market of Carmel …

… with its colorful fruit and vegetable offer

Delicious and cheap:

Try Israels street-kitchen at a stand of Carmel Market: Yummy!

… here for example!

Dates, apricots, nuts … everything your heart (or stomach) desires

How about a German Beer? Have one in the ‘Bavarian Brasserie’!

The café ‘Benedict’ on the Rothschild Boulevard

Especially recommended: The egg dishes. Delicious!

Good for a stroll: I walk the 1.5 km long promenade up to the northerly quarter New Port

Addresses:

Café Benedict
Ben Yehuda Street 171
or
Rothschild Blvd 29
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Rooftop-Bar Suramare
Se’Adya Ga’on 24
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Restaurant Vicky Cristina
Hatachana
Koifmann Street 1
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Bar Bustan
Hatachana
All The Country
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Restaurant Montefiori
Montefiori Street 36
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Carmel-Markt
HaCarmel Street 11
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Dont’t miss:

The upcoming Tel Aviv episodes about a wonderful boutique hotel, the most amazing street in ‘Neve Tsedek‘, the best place for Wiener Schnitzel, my absolute favorite restaurant and my perfect day in Jaffa. Stay tuned! ביי לעת עתה

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