No question about it: The historic buildings with their lush gold decor around the Brussels Town Hall are one of a kind

Perhaps it was because of my previous visit to beautiful Bruges, or perhaps simply because of a romantically transfigured memory of a visit to Brussels 25 years ago: My current encounter with Europe’s capital disappointed me at first. Only on the second day my mood brightened up, which was due to the fact that I discovered the trendy districts Saint Gilles and Ixelles.

Palais du Roi: At home with the King…

But first my impression of day one: Normally there are numerous cafés and restaurants around Place Jourdan in front of my hotel Sofitel, where you can sit outside. If it weren’t for the current major construction site. In the opposite brasserie “L’Esprit de Sel” – a recommendation of the hotel concierge – I ate a very moderate goat cheese salad and Belgian meatballs and I wondered to what extent grey building rubble and unspeakable noise influence the quality of a meal or even the basic mood of the cook? After all, the next morning I was compensated with a good breakfast in the “Or Espresso Bar”. Here the young avant-garde sits above their computers and enjoys the supposedly best coffee in town. I tasted the freshly baked sourdough bread with homemade jam and an organic Earl Grey before I went to the Atomium by metro. Not original, but a must see for every visitor to Brussels.

The Atomium and I

Back in the city centre. My tour started at the church Saint Cathérine at the square of the same name, around which nice restaurants invite for lunch. Then I went to the adjacent boulevard Antoine Dansaert, where, according to my travel guide, the chic boutiques of Belgian designers are located. Nope. Apart from the “A Suivre” boutique with the brands Vanessa Bruno, Barbara Bui, Joseph, Isabel Marant and some Belgian designers, grey dreariness was the order of the day. I went all the way to the stock exchange, where, in view of the dubious figures around the Place de Bourse, I preferred to quickly find my way around. Neither the Grand Place with its baroque gilded facades and the impressive town hall nor Manneken Pis could really fascinate me. Not to mention the alleys around it with junk shops and rip-off restaurants. Passing the Place du Grand Sablon, the Royal Library and the Royal Palace Palais du Roi, I landed in the Parc de Bruxelles, where I finally had the feeling of being able to breathe again.

Green lung of Brussels: Parc de Bruxelles

Brussels – and this is not really surprising – is dominated by Europe, its policies and its diplomats. Modern skyscrapers, in which the European Committee is housed, dominate an entire quarter, the Quartier Européen. If this is your first visit to Brussels, you should check it out.

House of the European Commission

Day two: My personal highlight were the districts Ixelles and Saint Gilles. My way to get there was along the Boulevard de Waterloo, where all renowned labels and luxury boutiques present themselves, from Prada to Chanel and Gucci. From there the street leads into Avenue Louise, where cheaper brands like Zara, Tommy Hilfiger or my new favourite label Essentiel-Antwerp are represented. I have seen original, individual shops and boutiques on the Rue du Bailli and Rue Africaine, around the church Saint Trinité in the middle of Ixelles. A district where many facades bear witness to the splendour of the Belle Epoque or are still waiting to be restored to their full beauty. My goal was to visit the Horta-Museum, once the home of Victor Horta, the creator of Art Nouveau. Good to know: The museum opens from 14.00 to 17.30 and is closed on Mondays. From here you have an ideal starting point to explore the many Art Nouveau facades of Brussels. Just follow the Chaussee de Charleroi and its extension Avenue Brugmann – the demarcation line of the Saint Gilles and Ixelles districts – and drift along its small streets. A highlight of urban elegance and classical architecture is the area around Avenue du Haut Pont, Rue Franz Merjay, Place Brugmann and Avenue Louis Lepoutre.

Dreamy Brussels: The Saint Gilles and Ixelles hoods

Here, in the Rue Franz Merjay, I stopped by the small bistro “Chez Franz” and ordered a goat cheese salad. This time it tasted delicious, including the oven-warm baguette served with it. Madame Danielle, an elegant, communicative Brussels-based, sitting at the next table, explained the spirit of her city to me and gave me wonderful tips for the rest of the day. So I strolled along the perhaps most beautiful promenade in Brussels, the Etangs d’Ixelles, situated on two long ponds. On the way there I made a detour through the small, enchanted park Tenbosch. Almost reminiscent of an exotic biotope, this green oasis turned out to be a real insider tip. Am I really in the middle of a pulsating big city, I thought to myself and enjoyed the moment. Brussels, a city of contrasts. BvH

A good breakfast is served in the „Or Espresso Bar“

The Atomium was the main pavilion at 1958 World’s Fair. Engineer André Waterkeyn and the architects André and Jean Polak were responsible for the design of Brussels landmark building

Brussels Town Hall: Even on rainy days a tourist magnet

Beautiful garden at the Royal Library of Belgium

Label to watch: Essentiel Antwerp

Around Place Saint Cathérine nice restaurants invite for lunch

An eyecatcher: Boutique “A Suivre” on Boulevard Antoine Dansaert

Around the Saint Trinité church, Rue du Bailli and Rue Africaine original, individual shops and boutiques are situated…

…like the concept store Mellow…

…and the Boutique Bonzai…

Around 1,500 houses in the most beautiful Art Nouveau style can still be admired in Brussels today

Open your eyes: Beautifully restored houses, sometimes reminiscent of English townhouses…

…Art Nouveau pearls with lush decor, little towers, oriels and balustrades…

…and imposing portals

Walking through the districts with watchful eyes…

…you will discover the architectural beauty and diversity of Brussels

Here you can make your credit card glow effortlessly: The Boutique „Cachemire Coton Soie“

Delicious food, nice staff and located in the trendy Saint Gilles area: The Bistro-Restaurant „Chez Franz“…

…where I highly recommend the goat cheese salad. In addition a glass of rosé wine: Santé!

I particularly like the playful facades and gables with the many chimneys, although I only warmed up with Brussels at second glance

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Bruges – Belgian pearl of medieval architecture. Here the market place “Markt”

For me as a Lübeck-native, a visit to the Belgian city of Bruges is like a déjà vu. Only that my hometown can not keep up with this collection of picturesque patrician houses, baroque city palaces and classical façades. Walking through Bruges’ old town, the many canals and bridges are reminiscent of Amsterdam. You can feel it in every corner of Bruges, that this architectural jewel was one of the most successful commercial cities from the 13th to the 15th century and it impresses me in which historical homogeneity the city still presents itself seven centuries later.

Bruges was never destroyed by wars or large-scale fires, which is why the famous historic center – since 2002 Unesco World Heritage Site – has been preserved

To get in the mood for my visit to Bruges, I watched the US film “In Bruges” with Colin Farrell and asked myself how they kept away the tourist crowds during filming. I was warned by my Belgian friend Winny: “Yes, it is always crowded in Bruges. Nevertheless, you should have been there once.” Maybe not on a weekend and certainly not when 20,000 football fans storm the city and celebrate the championship title of their club FC Bruges at the market in the old town. Day tourists flood the historic walls in every season from no later than 11 am and roll through the narrow streets of this picturesque village in West Flanders. Those who want to escape the crowds during the day simply walk beyond the respective squares such as “Markt” and “Burg” and suddenly find themselves in quiet residential areas or in greened patios. A break is also offered by the Beguinage, which is indeed a sightseeing highlight, however in which groups have no access.

Fancy a break? The Beguinage is a green oasis of peace, but in the center of the city

Culinary, Bruges has adjusted to the tourists: around the market, castle and other “places to see” there are many restaurants, unfortunately not always good, and often with overpriced food. And although I know, you should spare mussels in months without the letter “r”, I ordered Moules Frites. The Belgian specialty is offered here all year round, is frozen foods and of doubtful quality. My tip: have lunch or dinner at one of the many Michelin and Gault Millau restaurants, many of which offer comparatively affordable lunch menus. Or one discovers the locals’ spots beyond the tourist paths, such as the café “Sanseveria” in the Predikherenstraat.

Discover the locals’ spots beyond the tourist paths, such as the “Sanseveria” in the Predikherenstraat: The hip side of medieval Bruges

When the night comes over Bruges, the day tourists have left again, and the city and its inhabitants sigh recognizably. The old town dives into a special light, which effectively stages the old walls. Just around the corner from my hotel Prinsenhof lies the gourmet restaurant Guillaume. I enjoy a delicious menu and a super nice service. On the way to the hotel I experience the now deserted streets of Bruges by moonlight. Pure romance! A feeling that would hardly have come up a few hours earlier.  BvH

Bruges at night

Triennale Bruges

Art installation by Studio KCA at Jan van Eyck place

Attention, art fans: Until September 16, the Triennale Art Exhibition in Bruges awaits with 15 – partly accessible – works and installations that are spread over the entire Old Town. Central theme: Liquid Society highlights the implications of ever-changing interpersonal relationships. Art and city can thus be jointly explored by a tour.

Below the blue whale, the gourmet restaurant Spinola has built up its kitchen. Art enjoyment from close proximity

Speaking of enjoyment: This café on the Biskajersplein square is only available during the Triennale

Stretching towards the sky: Sculpture Lanchals – long necks – by John Powers reminiscent of a gooseneck

Temporary bridge installation by Jaroslaw Kozakiewicz

Want to cool down? From the pink plastic pavilion of the Spanish architect Selgascano you can dare to jump into the canal

Urban Model Belgian artist Wesley Meuris called his triennial contribution to architecture and urban life

Minne Floating School by Kunlé Adeyemi: A kind of floating school, dealing with climate change and an incentive to create renewable energy

Planning is everything: What is where at the Triennale Bruges 2018?

Where to bed in Bruges

There are some promising boutique hotels in Bruges such as the Van Cleef, Hotel Die Swaene or the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce. The Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is beautifully decorated (I love the Belgian interior with its soft colors) and is right by the canal. With its historic façade, it is one of the most photographed spots in the city. An aspect that causes some unrest. I decide for the Prinsenhof, which is within walking distance of three minutes from the market in a quiet side street.

Boutique Hotel Die Swaene

The Hotel Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is right by the canal…

…and beautifully decorated. I love the Belgian interior with its soft colors

Rozenhoedkaai: one of the most photographed spots in the city. What a terrific view!

Hotel Prinsenhof…

…with its pretty lobby and Delft tiles surrounding the fireplace

My spacious room is decorated with beautiful fabrics and equipped with a separate toilet. The service is professionally friendly, but unfortunately not cordial

Bruges and Culinary

I let myself be spoiled in the star restaurant Guillaume. The gourmet restaurant Guillaume in Korte Lane is located in an old cottage. From the outside it seems almost a bit unspectacular, so we almost passed it. I opt for the three-course menu “Crazy Creations” for 52 euros: Amuse Gueule from reinterpreted Vitello tonato, roast beef and pike-perch. As a starter: lobster, Fois Grois, Iberico ham and exotic fruits. Followed by guinea fowl with roasted diced tomatoes and a raspberry slice for dessert. We renounce the wine and choose the Rosé Luberon from Provence, 32 euros a bottle.

I let myself be spoiled in the star restaurant Guillaume

As a starter: lobster, Fois Grois, Iberico ham and exotic fruits…yummy!

At the Aux Merveilleux at “Eiermarkt” place you not only enjoy the view to an imposing chandelier …

…but also a delicious breakfast with oven-warm bread and croissants

Welcome to chocolate paradise: Belgium’s chocolate is legendary, but there are also qualitative differences here. Therefore, not every truffle praline offered on the Wollestraat in umpteen side-by-side laying confectioneries, is of superior quality…

…A feast for the eyes: The chocolate mountains tower up high

The Assiette Blanche restaurant is cozy with its wood paneling. A lunch menu is served for 37€:

After the Amuse-Gueule – Anchovy and Parmesan-stuffed Macaron – a deep-fried sole with lettuce and aioli is served…

…followed by grilled hip of lamb with blanched and pureed carrots and wildflowers

Dessert: Rhubarb and strawberries with meringue and vanilla ice cream. A glass of open white wine from the Macon is offered for 7 euros. The service is excellent and especially friendly

Lovely Bruges

Passage to “Burg” place

Richly designed facades on the houses around “Burg” place

Here the town hall

Lush Baroque, wherever you look

Long waits and queues in front of the boat launchers for a ride on the canals of Bruges. Tip: Boots take a half-hour trip to neighboring Damme three times a day, the formerly important trading city. Previous reservation required

Beautiful architecture in “Kortewinkel” street as here the bar Groot Vlaenderen

…with impressive door details

…and again …

…and an imposing private door portal

Above the rooftops of Bruges

Impressive I find the roof structures with the winding chimneys and playful towers. What a splendor!

Does Harry Potter live here?

It’s best to always keep your eyes turned upwards so that nothing escapes you

…such as this magnificent house facade

I love the Belgian style with the pale red clinker and the darkened door and window frames. Sooo noble!

Places of silence

Yes, they exist, the tranquil places of peace and silence in Bruges

…like this delightful red-clinker cottage located right by the canal

Meeting point for the ducks and swans of Bruges to the opposite of the Beguinage

Tower with a view and beautiful shutters

The enchanted garden paradise in the middle of the city of Bruges and directly by the water: more is not possible

Idyllic street café Terrastje

Only a few cobblestone streets away from the Bruges hustle and bustle, you enter a quiet residential area that reminds a little of London with its bay windows and front yards

And of course, windmills are as much a part of Bruges as the old rampart along the canals, on which they were once built

Info Triennale Bruges

triennalebrugge.be

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