That’s me on the roof terrace of the Nomad, one of my favorite restaurants in Marrakech

My first encounter with Marrakech was 22 years ago. Back then, I shot a report for the TV channel Premiere (now ‘Sky’), about a gigantic luxury villa in the Palmeraie, which is owned by the fashion designer Giorgio Armani and has already been rented by movie diva Elizabeth Taylor. Idyllically located, beautifully furnished, with a pool in the garden and a view of the Atlas Mountains and the adjacent property of Yves Saint Laurent. Marrakech has always had a special fascination, prominent names like old-rocker Mick Jagger and style icon Diana Vreeland have left their marks here. I fell in love with this city and, since then, have always returned enthusiastically. Recently this past Easter weekend.

One of the green courtyards of Riad El Cadi

Now is the perfect time of the year for a break in the city of cultural contrasts with its African, Arab and Berber traditions: during the day the sun warms (if it comes out) at 25 degrees Celsius – then the day can already start with an open-air breakfast. The best way of doing so is on a roof terrace with view over the rooftops of Marrakech. For example, in the Riad El Cadi, a with Moroccan antiques decorated boutique hotel, which is run by the Berliner Julia Bartels. She inherited the complex of seven houses of her father, the former German Ambassador of Morocco in 2003. And this is how a lawyer became a hotelier. Riad El Cadi is located in the exciting Medina but is still an oasis of calm. For something a bit more luxurious, I recommend the Riad El Fenn, that was opened in 2004 by the art ambitious founder of Marrakech’s Biennale, Vanessa Branson – sister of the millionaire entrepreneur Richard Branson – and is one of the most popular tourist attractions.

The ultra-chic rooftop of the Riad El Fenn with its inviting seating areas and sun shades. In the El Fenn a very nice concept store opened most recently with an adjoining restaurant where people tired of tajine can also eat pasta

Riad El Fenn is a little gem among the riads, the rooms are partly equipped with camel leather tiles, each room is individually designed

Marrakech has become a true oriental fairy tale, especially in the old city, the medina, which labyrinthine streets invite more to random findings rather than targeted searches. My tip: Invest in a guide that leads you through the souks. Inform yourself in advance of destinations and addresses and what you want to see. Whoever has the time, can just drift. This is the best way to explore the Medina and surrender to its charm. One of my favorite places in the souks is Rahba Kedima. Here, the dealers present basket- and leather goods, spices and argan oils and provide mediums against mosquitoes, moths or sleeping problems. At the end of the square lies the famous Café des Epices, opposite is my favorite, the Nomad, on which you can enjoy the best lunch on the roof terrace. Underneath is a pretty and small shop, where modern design and ceramics are sold.

In the square Rahba Kedima I bought an embroidered bag and placemats decorated with colorful tassels. Of course I did quite successfully haggled as haggling is part of the oriental shopping mentality

Also, the carpet dealers’ neighborhood lies adjacent to the Rahba Kedima square. If you wanted to buy a carpet, a Beni Ourain for example, you should definitely compare the prices. For me, the best of all carpet dealers are the Soufiane brothers. Hidden, so that you can hardly find them on your own, you call beforehand and arrange a meeting point. Entering Soufianes house, you have arrived in paradise of carpets: antique and new Berber carpets or Soufianes own carpet design – the prices are fair and the goods will be delivered right to the front of your door.

Carpet fans will be spoiled for choice at Soufiane’s place

In Marrakech a day goes by in a flash. Suddenly it’s time for a sundowner, and that I recommend on the rooftop of the no longer new, but still wonderful Kosybar at Place des Ferblantiers. Here, one is closest to the snowy peaks of the High Atlas and meanwhile can watch the storks that have built their nests on the ancient walls of the city. More romance is hardly possible.

View to the snowy peaks of the High Atlas and the storks that have built their nests on the ancient walls of the city

It’s also romantic in the evenings at the restaurant Dar Yacout. A legend in the Marrakech-gastronomy, mainly due to the pretty interiors designed by Bill Willis. However, the food quality is not really in the price-benefit-ratio. (Menu 700 DH = 70 Euro per person). For someone who likes it a bit more down to earth, hip and trendy, I suggest the Le Jardin to enjoy delicious chicken skewers (110 DH), grilled sea bream (150 DH) or lamb tajine with prunes (120 DH). Who can’t get tired of shopping can find here on the 1st floor at Norya Ayron individual caftans and beautiful clutches, the perfect outfit for Marrakech’s nightlife. This, however, mainly takes place in the New Town, Guéliz – but this another fairy tale from 1001 Nights. BvH

How about a romantic Candlelight-Dinner directly at the pool of the restaurant Dar Yacout?

It is still one of the most beautiful restaurants in Marrakech

Marrakech – the Pearl of the South

The restaurant Le Jardin is the perfect place for lunch or dinner …

Watch your step …#turtlescrossing

Delicious at Le Jardin are the brochettes: barbecue skewers – here with chicken and vegetables

Le Jardin is a melange of green tones: turquoise tiles and lime green colored walls plus the house “Jungle”. There are also small rooms with open fires for colder nights

On the first floor at Le Jardin Norya Ayron sells her individual creations …

… like this colorful silk caftan …

… or these casual leather Clutches: my newest summer must-have!

An oriental Fairy Tale

I call that service:

The Nomad offers sun hats to the guests for the duration of their stay

Lunch at Café Nomad: I love the appetizer plate ‘mezze’ ( 70DH = approx 7 €) . A glass of Rosé (highly recommended are Moroccan wines ) and a perfect view to the colorful market

The Souks in the Medina:

A big chaos, a colorful world of commodities without fixed prices …

Here, haggling is part of the shopping mentality

In the carpet kingdom of Ismail Soufiane: He offers antique and new carpets. You can get here also the stylish Beni Ourain Berber carpets

Ismail served freshly prepared mint tea – a sign of Moroccan hospitality

Shop’til you drop

Leather poufs currently experience a style-revival. I remember that my parents already had Moroccan leather poufs in their living room

At the Kif-Kif shop you can find beautiful home accessories und textiles

The souks of Marrakech are the Mecca for every jewelry freak: Here I bought exceptional pieces such as bracelets in sterling silver

Tour guide Achmed (on the right) also explains the attractions, such as the former Medersa Ben Youssef …

… with its wonderful tiles …

… And the fantastic facade ornaments. Incidentally, the Medersa is a Unesco World Heritage Site, as well as the entire Medina

Magnificent antique door at the Riad El Cadi

Breakfast on the rooftop of Riad El Cadi …

… and amazing antique details

So beautiful: A Sundowner on the rooftop terrace of the Kosybar

Good night, Marrakech!

Tips:

Best Tour guide for the Medina with its attractions and the Souks is Achmed: +212-661088938.
You should know that the guides like to show you shops, where they are involved in sales

All roads lead – in this case – to Djamaa El Fna , the square of the hanged , where the exciting nightlife of Marrakech awakens at nightfall latest. Tip: If you get lost, simply ask for “La place” …

Contacts:

Soufiane Zarib
24 Db Amseghi Sidi Ishak
Marrakech
+212-661853487

Riad El Cadi
86/87 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, Dabachi
Marrakech +212 5243-78098
www.riyadelcadi.com

Riad El Fenn
Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, 2
Marrakech
+212 5244-41210
www.el-fenn.com

Kosybar
Place des Ferblantiers، Rue de Berrima
Marrakech
+212 5243-80324
www.kosybar.com

Le Jardin
32 Route Sidi Abdelaziz
Marrakech
+212 5243-78295
www.lejardin.ma

Nomad
Rahba Kedima
Marrakech
+212 5243-81609
www.nomadmarrakech.com

Dar Yacout
79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi
Marrakech
+212 5243-82929
www.daryacout.com

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View from the beach to the awesome skyline of Tel Aviv

Good morning Tel Aviv! I’m looking outside the window, the sun is shining and so I walk to Frishman-beach – directly round the corner of my hotel ‘The Mendeli’ – for a little, refreshing bath in the Mediterranean Sea. The water seems to look so beautifully turquoise, like in the Caribbean. Bathing makes hungry, so I’m going to Café ‘Benedict’, one of Tel Aviv’s hippest breakfast addresses, where you get spoiled 24/7 with delicious egg dishes, freshly baked bread or pancakes and waffles with warm Nutella toppings. It’s recommended to make a reservation in advance to skip the endless seeming queue.

Hot, hot, hot: The Café ‘Benedict’

Well strengthened I’m walking in the direction of Florentin, Tel Aviv’s new artistic neighborhood, which just got discovered by the intellectual scene – an escape from the high rents of the established districts. I’m strolling through Herzel Street – the stronghold of interior stores – turn right to Florentin Street, and drift through the alleys at a felt temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. The heat level rises, my excitement sinks, also because I can’t see what I was expecting to find in Florentin. Only the traders on Levinsky-Street with their small spice shops and the cafes are a discovery, before I keep on running to the original bazar, the ‘Carmel Market’ – , Shuk HaCarmel – in the district Yafo: attraction for tourists as well as shopping source of the Tel Avivians for fruits, vegetables, fish, meat and textiles.

Watch out! Ask for teaspoonwhise measurement of spices

I’m buying herbs at the stand of Mishel Basta. With quick hands he’s filling hummus spices and curry in plastic bags and I was very surprised, when I suddenly found 100 Euros on my bill. My tip: specify the required amount in the measurement of a teaspoon.

Very chic: The restaurant ‘Montefiori’ in the homonymous street

For lunch I try the tip of my fond of travel friend Karen: At ‘Montefiori’ in the street of the same name near the ‘Shalom Tower’ one dines in a very stylish ambient. In the afternoon there’s a special lunch offer for the hip IT audience including an ice tea: not a culinary experience, but therefore very friendly staff and the aircon’ gave its best. Indeed I was pretty happy to carry a scarf with me.

That’s me purchasing spices on the Levinksy Street: Who has the choice, has the torment!

I continue northwards to Tel Aviv Marina, a small yacht harbor directly at the promenade, in direct neighborhood of the big hotels, huge concrete blocks and therefore not a real feast for the eyes. Over the promenade, which is 1.5 kilometers long, one gets to the northern district ‘New Port’, which is especially famous for its water shows on the weekend, the stores, markets and restaurants.

The marina of Tel Aviv and the caribbean blue water – so beautiful!

The sundowner at Frishman beach is a must. It’s best to enjoy the colorful spectacle with cold water or a coke, as the consumption of alcohol is strictly forbidden at the beaches of Israel.

Sunset at the Frishman-Beach – but please only with alcohol-free sundowner!

The nightlife in Tel Aviv can offer a lot. One of the favorite spots of the youngsters of Tel Aviv is the ‚Old Train Station‘ in the mega cool district ‘Neve Tsedek’. Nice restaurants and shops settled down in the stylish, renovated area of the former railway station ‘HaTachana’ in old buildings. Cecilie, who’s currently absorbing an internship in a Start-Up, has the tip of the evening: in the Spanish restaurant ‘Vicky Cristina’ welcomes us Shay, the owner itself and serves delicious tapas. Cecilie’s favorite tapas: fried cheese and the vegan paella, I like the chicken and the mini burger, crowned by a gluten free chocolate cake. It’s best to order several tapas and then exchange them. The wine selection is also great: try an Israeli Rosé from the winery Chateau Golan – you won’t regret it!

At the restaurant ‘Vicky Cristina’ the best tapas in town are served!

Afterwards there’s a very cool bar called ‚Bustan’. It’s right next to the ‚Vicky Cristina‘, where you can have excellent cocktails in the open air and Djs play swinging music. Especially the party ‘Secret Garden’, which takes place every Tuesday from 10:30 pm onwards, is a must. Who’s still in the mood to carry on afterwards should go to the rooftop bar ‘Suramare’, an absolute insider tip. From there one has a view over the vibrant Tel Aviv, over a city of awakening that never sleeps. BvH

Absolute insider tip: Rooftop bar ,Suramare’ with mega views over the city

Hotspot: renovated area of the former railway station ‘HaTachana’ …

… with shops and restaurants in the mega-hipp district ‚Neve Tsedek‘

Okay, what we eat then? In ‘Vicky Cristina’ the menu is studied

The former railway station ‚HaTachana‘

Tips:

Discover the district ‘Florentin’ with a professional:
Guy Sharett from ‘Street Wise Hebrew’ offers an art- and graffiti tour.
Nahalat Binyamin Straße 151

www.streetwisehebrew.com

The market of Carmel …

… with its colorful fruit and vegetable offer

Delicious and cheap:

Try Israels street-kitchen at a stand of Carmel Market: Yummy!

… here for example!

Dates, apricots, nuts … everything your heart (or stomach) desires

How about a German Beer? Have one in the ‘Bavarian Brasserie’!

The café ‘Benedict’ on the Rothschild Boulevard

Especially recommended: The egg dishes. Delicious!

Good for a stroll: I walk the 1.5 km long promenade up to the northerly quarter New Port

Addresses:

Café Benedict
Ben Yehuda Street 171
or
Rothschild Blvd 29
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Rooftop-Bar Suramare
Se’Adya Ga’on 24
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Restaurant Vicky Cristina
Hatachana
Koifmann Street 1
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Bar Bustan
Hatachana
All The Country
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Restaurant Montefiori
Montefiori Street 36
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Carmel-Markt
HaCarmel Street 11
Tel Aviv-Yafo

Dont’t miss:

The upcoming Tel Aviv episodes about a wonderful boutique hotel, the most amazing street in ‘Neve Tsedek‘, the best place for Wiener Schnitzel, my absolute favorite restaurant and my perfect day in Jaffa. Stay tuned! ביי לעת עתה

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