Bruges – Belgian pearl of medieval architecture. Here the market place “Markt”

For me as a Lübeck-native, a visit to the Belgian city of Bruges is like a déjà vu. Only that my hometown can not keep up with this collection of picturesque patrician houses, baroque city palaces and classical façades. Walking through Bruges’ old town, the many canals and bridges are reminiscent of Amsterdam. You can feel it in every corner of Bruges, that this architectural jewel was one of the most successful commercial cities from the 13th to the 15th century and it impresses me in which historical homogeneity the city still presents itself seven centuries later.

Bruges was never destroyed by wars or large-scale fires, which is why the famous historic center – since 2002 Unesco World Heritage Site – has been preserved

To get in the mood for my visit to Bruges, I watched the US film “In Bruges” with Colin Farrell and asked myself how they kept away the tourist crowds during filming. I was warned by my Belgian friend Winny: “Yes, it is always crowded in Bruges. Nevertheless, you should have been there once.” Maybe not on a weekend and certainly not when 20,000 football fans storm the city and celebrate the championship title of their club FC Bruges at the market in the old town. Day tourists flood the historic walls in every season from no later than 11 am and roll through the narrow streets of this picturesque village in West Flanders. Those who want to escape the crowds during the day simply walk beyond the respective squares such as “Markt” and “Burg” and suddenly find themselves in quiet residential areas or in greened patios. A break is also offered by the Beguinage, which is indeed a sightseeing highlight, however in which groups have no access.

Fancy a break? The Beguinage is a green oasis of peace, but in the center of the city

Culinary, Bruges has adjusted to the tourists: around the market, castle and other “places to see” there are many restaurants, unfortunately not always good, and often with overpriced food. And although I know, you should spare mussels in months without the letter “r”, I ordered Moules Frites. The Belgian specialty is offered here all year round, is frozen foods and of doubtful quality. My tip: have lunch or dinner at one of the many Michelin and Gault Millau restaurants, many of which offer comparatively affordable lunch menus. Or one discovers the locals’ spots beyond the tourist paths, such as the café “Sanseveria” in the Predikherenstraat.

Discover the locals’ spots beyond the tourist paths, such as the “Sanseveria” in the Predikherenstraat: The hip side of medieval Bruges

When the night comes over Bruges, the day tourists have left again, and the city and its inhabitants sigh recognizably. The old town dives into a special light, which effectively stages the old walls. Just around the corner from my hotel Prinsenhof lies the gourmet restaurant Guillaume. I enjoy a delicious menu and a super nice service. On the way to the hotel I experience the now deserted streets of Bruges by moonlight. Pure romance! A feeling that would hardly have come up a few hours earlier.  BvH

Bruges at night

Triennale Bruges

Art installation by Studio KCA at Jan van Eyck place

Attention, art fans: Until September 16, the Triennale Art Exhibition in Bruges awaits with 15 – partly accessible – works and installations that are spread over the entire Old Town. Central theme: Liquid Society highlights the implications of ever-changing interpersonal relationships. Art and city can thus be jointly explored by a tour.

Below the blue whale, the gourmet restaurant Spinola has built up its kitchen. Art enjoyment from close proximity

Speaking of enjoyment: This café on the Biskajersplein square is only available during the Triennale

Stretching towards the sky: Sculpture Lanchals – long necks – by John Powers reminiscent of a gooseneck

Temporary bridge installation by Jaroslaw Kozakiewicz

Want to cool down? From the pink plastic pavilion of the Spanish architect Selgascano you can dare to jump into the canal

Urban Model Belgian artist Wesley Meuris called his triennial contribution to architecture and urban life

Minne Floating School by Kunlé Adeyemi: A kind of floating school, dealing with climate change and an incentive to create renewable energy

Planning is everything: What is where at the Triennale Bruges 2018?

Where to bed in Bruges

There are some promising boutique hotels in Bruges such as the Van Cleef, Hotel Die Swaene or the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce. The Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is beautifully decorated (I love the Belgian interior with its soft colors) and is right by the canal. With its historic façade, it is one of the most photographed spots in the city. An aspect that causes some unrest. I decide for the Prinsenhof, which is within walking distance of three minutes from the market in a quiet side street.

Boutique Hotel Die Swaene

The Hotel Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is right by the canal…

…and beautifully decorated. I love the Belgian interior with its soft colors

Rozenhoedkaai: one of the most photographed spots in the city. What a terrific view!

Hotel Prinsenhof…

…with its pretty lobby and Delft tiles surrounding the fireplace

My spacious room is decorated with beautiful fabrics and equipped with a separate toilet. The service is professionally friendly, but unfortunately not cordial

Bruges and Culinary

I let myself be spoiled in the star restaurant Guillaume. The gourmet restaurant Guillaume in Korte Lane is located in an old cottage. From the outside it seems almost a bit unspectacular, so we almost passed it. I opt for the three-course menu “Crazy Creations” for 52 euros: Amuse Gueule from reinterpreted Vitello tonato, roast beef and pike-perch. As a starter: lobster, Fois Grois, Iberico ham and exotic fruits. Followed by guinea fowl with roasted diced tomatoes and a raspberry slice for dessert. We renounce the wine and choose the Rosé Luberon from Provence, 32 euros a bottle.

I let myself be spoiled in the star restaurant Guillaume

As a starter: lobster, Fois Grois, Iberico ham and exotic fruits…yummy!

At the Aux Merveilleux at “Eiermarkt” place you not only enjoy the view to an imposing chandelier …

…but also a delicious breakfast with oven-warm bread and croissants

Welcome to chocolate paradise: Belgium’s chocolate is legendary, but there are also qualitative differences here. Therefore, not every truffle praline offered on the Wollestraat in umpteen side-by-side laying confectioneries, is of superior quality…

…A feast for the eyes: The chocolate mountains tower up high

The Assiette Blanche restaurant is cozy with its wood paneling. A lunch menu is served for 37€:

After the Amuse-Gueule – Anchovy and Parmesan-stuffed Macaron – a deep-fried sole with lettuce and aioli is served…

…followed by grilled hip of lamb with blanched and pureed carrots and wildflowers

Dessert: Rhubarb and strawberries with meringue and vanilla ice cream. A glass of open white wine from the Macon is offered for 7 euros. The service is excellent and especially friendly

Lovely Bruges

Passage to “Burg” place

Richly designed facades on the houses around “Burg” place

Here the town hall

Lush Baroque, wherever you look

Long waits and queues in front of the boat launchers for a ride on the canals of Bruges. Tip: Boots take a half-hour trip to neighboring Damme three times a day, the formerly important trading city. Previous reservation required

Beautiful architecture in “Kortewinkel” street as here the bar Groot Vlaenderen

…with impressive door details

…and again …

…and an imposing private door portal

Above the rooftops of Bruges

Impressive I find the roof structures with the winding chimneys and playful towers. What a splendor!

Does Harry Potter live here?

It’s best to always keep your eyes turned upwards so that nothing escapes you

…such as this magnificent house facade

I love the Belgian style with the pale red clinker and the darkened door and window frames. Sooo noble!

Places of silence

Yes, they exist, the tranquil places of peace and silence in Bruges

…like this delightful red-clinker cottage located right by the canal

Meeting point for the ducks and swans of Bruges to the opposite of the Beguinage

Tower with a view and beautiful shutters

The enchanted garden paradise in the middle of the city of Bruges and directly by the water: more is not possible

Idyllic street café Terrastje

Only a few cobblestone streets away from the Bruges hustle and bustle, you enter a quiet residential area that reminds a little of London with its bay windows and front yards

And of course, windmills are as much a part of Bruges as the old rampart along the canals, on which they were once built

Info Triennale Bruges

triennalebrugge.be

More travel tips you find here!

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Grüß Gott from Vienna!

You already know that the Danube metropolis is one of my favorite cities. The good thing is: Vienna also offers the returning traveler undiscovered and inspiring things. A highlight of my current stay in Vienna is the visit to the State Hall in the Austrian National Library. In the 18th century by Emperor Karl VI. commissioned, the State Hall is one of the most beautiful and spectacular libraries in the world with 200,000 books from four centuries. Already last year an exhibition about the great Maria Theresia was shown in this impressive ambience. This year I was tempted by an exhibition about the secrets of the Freemasons in the Hofburg: 300 years of Masons – the real secret. Absolutely worthwhile with interesting insights and backgrounds about the mystery and myths entwined secret society. Unfortunately, only shown until January 7, 2018!

The Prunksaal in der Österreichischen Nationalbibliothek, the State Hall in the Austrian National Library

As art is known to make you hungry, you can go to the Café Francais after, where you will find typical French snacks such as the wonderful ‘Salade Paris’. A MUST are the homemade fries: Just yummy, especially the curry dip! A good choice for lunch is the Café Le Bol – popular not only because of the delicious salad variations. Speaking of delicious: Breakfast I had in the dairy farm this time. Picturesquely located on the Danube Canal in the midst of the Vienna City Park, the dependance of the star Restaurant Steirereck actually resides on the foundations of a former dairy farm, where dairy products were produced in the Emperors time. The owners of the Steirereck – the Reitbauer family – have made this a duty and offer here alone 150 cheese specialties, which the guest selects under the expert advice of the cheese sommelier.

Me infront of the “Madonna with child” at the Albertina

For all Old Master fans, a visit to the Raffael exhibition shown in the Albertina is a MUST. Again, there is a hurry, because the exhibition will only be shown until January 7th. (For this there will be a detailed report on MyStylery). After so much enjoyment of art, it takes a little breather – or should I say a sugar shock? On to the Christmas decorated Hotel Sacher for a hot chocolate and a piece of the same named cake. Both of course with whipped cream – let’s go the whole hog! I do not just love the culinary here. The lavish decor at the Sacher just now at Christmas time is beautiful and a feast for the eyes.

Vienna – City of lights. I never get tired looking at this splendor. Is there anything comparable?

Afterwards, the calories burn up almost by itself, because let’s go to the Christmas market. This year, for the first time, I visit the market in front of Belvedere Palace, where I admire the magnificent rooms of the Upper Belvedere and the artworks on display there. Above all, of course, the famous works of Gustav Klimt: ‘The Kiss’ and the portrait of the beautiful Judith Holofernes.

The Christmas Market infront of the Schloss Belvedere – too beautiful

In Vienna you let yourself drift through the streets, immerse yourself in the centuries-old architecture of the Inner City, which is so authentically and wonderfully preserved that it would not be surprising if Mozart and his contemporaries suddenly stood face to face. I look forward to the evening and the upcoming premiere of Joseph Roth’s Radetzky March at the Burgtheater. Unfortunately, I did not particularly like the staging, but the more impressive ambience of this world class theater.

The restaurant Salon Plafond is very popular in Vienna. Tip: When reserving ask for a place inside. It’s way too cold on the window side

The culinary question of the evening will be answered with a visit to the Salon Plafond restaurant. We enjoy duck and scampi, the beautiful interior and the friendly service alike. The newcomer to Vienna’s Gastro scene ‚Spelunke‘ is also in great demand (reserve on time !!!) and popularity. Unfortunately, I had to cancel my table because the performance at the Burgtheater took three and a half hours. From the Burgtheater, I took a direct course on a nightcap towards the trendy Bar Fabios , where fabulous cocktails make up for a lot of things. Also about the approaching farewell. But Vienna, you know, I’ll be back!  BvH

Looking for some Christmas presents – it’s never too late ;-))

Magnificent light!

Breakfast in the Meierei (dairy farm) is served from 8 am to 12 noon. A reservation is advisable on the weekend and during Christmas time…

…We chose cheese omelettes and the Viennese breakfast with its excellent apricot jam and homemade bread…

The expert’s advice of the cheese sommelier

Strolling through Vienna with my lovely daughter

The famous but incomplete Wenceslas Bible from the 14th century at the State Hall of the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

At Café Francais you will find typical French snacks such as the wonderful ‘Salade Paris’…

…A MUST are the homemade fries: Just yummy, especially the curry dip!

Also a good choice: Café Le Bol – Who loves soups and salads, is at the right place here

Vienna in the Christmas glow: what an opulence, what a glamor! For me, Vienna is by far the most beautifully decorated city in the Christmas season

Impressing: The State Hall of Schloss Belvedere…

In the Belvedere the permanent collection of important impressionists and expressionists is shown and finally I could admire Gustav Klimt’s portrait of the beautiful Judith Holofernes …

…and also “The Kiss”

The best hot chocolate is available at the Hotel Sacher!

…Of course with fresh whipped cream…

…and in an elegant atmosphere

Vienna is always good for a surprise: Suddenly I find myself in this dreamlike staircase again, an architectural jewel in the 1st district

Window shopping in the festively decorated Vienna: The shopping heart is laughing

In the 7th district make a detour at Lena Hoschek . Here, the Austrian designer has a charming boutique with a living room atmosphere and lovely details in the midst of the romantic Spittelberg district

Bye bye Vienna…

Tip for Vienna:

Book your taxi from Schwechat Airport to the city (and back) online in advance on flextaxi-flughafentaxi.at at a very low fixed price!

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First impression of Warsaw: A lot of high buildings!

How did you get the idea to spend a weekend in Warsaw, my friend asked me surprised. The capital of Poland doesn’t really count to the top tips among the European destinations and is rather rarely visited by travelers. But Warsaw is a truly positive surprise and as a city trip highly recommended.

The Cultural Palace – Pałac Kultury i Nauki – the landmark of the city and a considerable Palazzo Prozzo

Once you get closer to Warsaw’s center you will first pass concrete wasteland that rather reminds of Berlin-Marzahn or Hamburg-Mümmelmannsberg. As in all former countries of the Eastern bloc the socialistic construction eternalized itself in the monumental buildings, especially in the Cultural Palace, which virtually stands out of the Warsaw skyline. The building that has been built in gingerbread style was once a present of Stalin to Poland and therefore still counts as sign of oppression for many Polish people today. For sure an imposing construction. It is especially the old town that fascinated me from the beginning of my trip. Warsaw’s center has been nearly completely destroyed during the Second World War. Only in the following decades the historical houses were reconstructed with a lot of love for detail.

Warsaw, the underestimated metropolis. Stare Miasto – the Old Town

The Polish capital is stronger connected to the era of the Second World War than any other city. Warsaw and its mainly Jewish inhabitants have suffered immeasurably under the terror of the Nazis. It was a special need to give me an idea of the former Warsaw Ghetto and its extent. Today bronze plates paved in walkways remind of the Ghetto wall, which stretched over three square kilometers in the district of Wola from 1940 onwards. A visit to the Museum of the Warsaw Uprising ‘Powstania Warszawskiego’ also gives a comprehensive impression of this gloomy chapter of Poland’s history. Here, the story is reproduced in a multimedia and impressive way.

Beautiful sightseeing and charming alley in the Old Town

After the museum visit and dispute of history I now particularly notice the beauty of Warsaw. Especially in the neighborhoods of Mostowa and Stare Miasto, with their filigreed, neoclassical and baroque house-facades. Everywhere you will find small cafés that invite you to linger. One drinks tea, coffee latte or one of the craft beers brewed in Poland, before I visit the memorial site of the composer Frédéric Chopin, where the heart of the Polish national composer is kept. Speaking of Chopin: fans of his music are recommended to see one of the open-air piano concerts that take place from May to September in Łazienki Park.

Trendy restaurant in the Mirow district: The ‘Winosfera’

It is well known that culture increases appetite for more. Those who love the hearty Polish cuisine are well served in traditional restaurants such as ‘Dawne Smaki’. In Warsaw, however, a young and modern culinary scene has also been established, such as restaurant ‘The Elephant’, which has recently been launched by Mystylery. The ‘Winosfera’ in the district Mirow is also very popular with its extensive range of wines. For a small drop-off, go to the ‘Panorama Sky Bar’ of the Marriott Hotel: simply enjoy great cocktails and the 360-degree view of the skyline of Warsaw. Then I fall tired into the bed of my hotel, the Sofitel Victoria in Warsaw’s Old Town. A smartly designed hotel with excellent service: I will certainly come back soon! BvH

The boulevard ‘Nowy Swiat’ is part of the former royal route and today counts to one of the great historic avenues of Warsaw’s Old Town

How to get to Warsaw:

From Berlin the best and fastest way is to go by plane with Air Berlin or by train in 5.5 hours

Today declared as World Cultural Heritage of Unesco: The Old Town of Warsaw

The Saint Kasimir Church on the ‚Ulica Freta‘ street

The ‘Ulica Mostowa’, with its colorful house-facades and cobblestones, looks as if time had stopped here

The Barbakane (town wall) was built in 1548 and is located at the transition from the Old Town to the New Town. At the beginning of the 15th century, the New Town, the district of the artisans, was founded

The Royal Castle at the Castle Square

The ‘Plac Zamkowy’ place with the Warsaw Castle

The Cultural Palace seems almost omnipresent. It just appears everywhere, no matter from where you look

Modern skyscrapers occurrence all over Warsaw – like the 220 meters high Warsaw Spire-Tower, which was still under construction during my visit

The Museum of the Warsaw Uprising ‚Powstania Warszawskiego‘:

Here, the story is reproduced in a multimedia and impressive way

In the Warsaw Ghetto, from 1940 until the deportation in the extermination camps, 450,000 people lived under the most adverse conditions. Today bronze plates paved in walkways remind of the Ghetto wall, which stretched over three square kilometers in the district of Wola

The Nozyk Synagoge in the ‘Ulica Twarda’ built in the style of neo-Romanesque neo-Byzantium in 1902, was used by the Nazis as a camp in 1941. The building was restored in 1977. It is the only pre-war synagogue in Warsaw

The only preserved street of the former Warsaw Ghetto in Mirow is the ‘Ulica Prozna’. Up to a few years ago, the bullet holes were still visible in the facades, which now shine in new splendor…

… Here, a young new scene now established, with many street cafés and galleries, such as the ‚Galeria Velt‘ and the Café ‚Prozna‘

Pretty hip: Warsaw reminds of the Berlin scene in some parts of the city and its street cafés

The halls of Mirowska: In these historical market halls you will find the true Poland. Fixed prices are rather an exception. May the bargaining begin!

Warsaw, what a beautiful city!

The main street of the New Town ‘Ulica Freta’ was built at the end of the 14th century and was once the trade route from Warsaw to the north

Those who love the hearty Polish cuisine are well served in traditional restaurants such as ‘Dawne Smaki’

In the garden of the restaurant ‚Dawne Smaki‘ you will be able to escape the big city and to enjoy Polish Piroggen – stuffed pastries. For dessert they serve fresh fruits with whipped cream

Nikolaus Kopernikus-monument on the ‘Krakowskie Przedmieście’ street

The Holy Cross Church on ‘Krakowskie Przedmiescie’ street …

The heart of Frédéric Chopin, which has been pickled in French cognac, has been resting in a pillar of the Holy Cross Church since 2010. The inscription on the memorial tablet reads: “For where your treasure is, there is your heart.”

What a beautiful light incident on the altar

Dziekuje – Thank you!

Warsaw doesn’t really count to the top ten of European hotspots. Wrongly, in my view!

Off to Warsaw!

Merken

Merken

Merken

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