One of the famous buildings of the Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi is the Casa Milà on Passeig de Gràcia, which was built from 1906 to 1910 as a landmark of the Modernisme

There is hardly a city that impresses me more in terms of architecture than Barcelona. The famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi has created real eye-catchers with his architectural style – the Modernisme. Impressive buildings such as Casa Milà and Casa Batlló, whose bright sandstone facades are adorned with playful bays and balconies. Especially in the districts of Barri Gothic, Raval, Gràcia and the Art Nouveau Eixample district, the magnificent buildings line up like the pearls of a string.

Magnificent buildings especially in the districts of Barri Gothic, Raval, Gràcia and the Art Nouveau Eixample district

Barcelona is not only fascinating because of its architecture. A city located directly by the sea and a five-kilometer, palm-fringed beach promenade, the Passeig Maritim with numerous restaurants and Chiringuitos (Spanish for beach shack) are already a special way of life. Wonderful when you wake up in the morning looking at the harbor silhouette, which is possible, for example, if you stay at the hotel of the stylishly designed private member club “Sohohouse” (located directly opposite the beach mile, from 330 euros per night), which I will soon report in more detail on MyStylery.

Big rush in Antoni Gaudi’s fairytale park

Immediately after getting up I take a taxi up to the hill Turó del Carme to Parc Güell. Dive into the fairy tale forest, which Antoni Gaudi had originally planned as a garden-city and built from imaginative, broken pottery. Tip: The number of visitors to the Gaudi fairytale-forest is limited to 400 visitors. Definitely buy the tickets online before (admission 8 euros per person). The same applies to Barcelona’s landmark, the impressive Basilica Sagrada Familia – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The exploration of the vast Güell Parc with its arcades and flower columns, also designed by Gaudi, is free and worthwhile for the phenomenal views over Barcelona alone. You can also enjoy a mega-view of the harbor, the city and the sea from the Castell de Montjuïc on the 173-high mountain of the same name. During the Franco dictatorship the former 16th-century fortress was used as a military prison and torture chamber for unwelcome opponents of the regime and political prisoners.

Parc Güell and Antoni Gaudi’s fairytale park overlook Barcelona’s skyline and the sea

On my way back I walk 5.5 kilometers by foot. I explore my favorite district of Gràcia, which is, because of its art scene, not only popular amongst young people. The capital of Catalonia is not as crowded here as in the turbulent old town streets and on the always crowded Ramblas, the famous promenade with its street musicians and artists. A visit to Barcelona’s La Catedral is a must, not just for fans of gothic architecture. Tip: From 8.00 am to 12.30 pm and from 5.30 pm to 7 pm, admission on weekdays is free. I head for the Picasso Museum in Carrer Montcada and then shop in the surrounding chic fashion boutiques. Worth a detour to the Arc de Triomf and the adjacent boulevard Passeig de Lluis Companys, which leads to the Parc de la Ciutadella: Barcelona’s green lung is popular with locals and tourists, especially on Sundays and public holidays.

The Arc de Triomf and the adjacent Boulevard Passeig de Lluis Companys

My destination is the district of Barceloneta, the former fishing village that has awakened from a deep slumber since the 1992 Olympic Games and has been carefully restored since then. Nevertheless, the village charm has been preserved. Nowhere have I seen more clothes on clotheslines fluttering in front of the windows, as a result of which all over Barceloneta there is an intense scent of detergents and fabric softeners. Typical are the small and inexpensive tapas bars and corner bars. However, I want to have lunch with a view of the sea and walk on to the Platja de la Barceloneta. Below the bronze sculpture in the shape of a giant fish by star architect Frank Gehry, I enjoy Calamari L’Andalusa (14 Euro) in the restaurant “Bestial”. Delicioso – delicious!

Why is there an intense scent of detergents and fabric softeners throughout Barceloneta? Therefore!

My tip for the evening is the restaurant “La Dama”, a gourmet restaurant in the spectacular Beletage of the Casa Sayrach, a magnificent building in Gaudi style. The sumptuously decorated entrance with columns and Art Nouveau elevator alone is just about the limit. The plush atmosphere is reminiscent of the lounge times of the 20’s and could have sprung from one of the novels of my Spanish favorite author Ruiz Safon. The food – i.a. roast beef (Rosbif de vaca, 16 euros) and sea bass (Lubina mediterranea, 26 euros) were as good as the final nightcap at the bar. Salud! BvH

Gourmet restaurant “La Dama” in the spectacular Beletage of the Casa Sayrach

Eating in Barcelona

“Can Fisher”: The name says it all. Here you can feast on excellent fresh fish and paella and enjoy a direct view of the Mediterranean Sea.

Foodies must have a look at Barcelona’s most beautiful market hall, “La Boqueria”. But be aware: At lunchtime, tourists come pouring in to eat at one of the stalls. Alternatively, the “El Nacional” offers food and drinks from all corners of Spain at various cooking stations and bars in a gigantic hall.

Me sitting in the sun…Barcelona offers 4.2 kilometers of golden sandy beaches, just 10 minutes from the city center

Sleeping in Barcelona

“Chic and Basic Ramblas Hotels” (from 130 euros per night), “Motel One” Barcelona-Ciutadella (from 95 euros), “Room Mate Gerard” in the Eixamples district (from 180 euros).

Hotel tip: “The Neri” in the middle of the romantic old town with the excellent restaurant “a”

The palm-fringed seafront of Barcelona and Port Vell is five kilometers long btw

Arriving in Barcelona

For example, with EasyJet from 128 euros.

The journey time from the Aeroporto Barcelona to the city is about 20 to 30 minutes by taxi, the fare about 30 to 35 euros. The Aerobus runs every 5 to 10 minutes, single ticket for 5,90, there and back 10,20 Euro. There are also trains as well as the TMB airport bus line 46.
Speaking of bus: In Barcelona you can also explore the city for an initial overview via an on-and-off bus tour.

More tips for Barcelona

A culinary paradise (not only) for vegans: The weekend brunch in the “Flax & Kale” restaurant. Tip: The avocado toast with homemade bread. Glutenfree of course!

Makes one speechless: The monumental architecture of the Gaudi Cathedral Sagrada Familia – the symbol of Barcelona…

…As imaginative as if it had sprung from a Hollywood backdrop

One of the most beautiful places in the Catalan capital: The Placa Reial

Mekka for all foodies: Barcelona’s most beautiful market hall “La Boqueria”

Having lunch under palm trees and with views to the Mediterranean – for example in the restaurant “Bestial”

La Catedral Barcelona: Typical and traditional is the sardana dance that can be watched on Saturday afternoons next to the Catedral Barcelona

The Sardana is a symbol of unity and pride of the Catalans

Parc de la Ciutadella: Barcelona’s green lung is popular with locals and tourists

The marina of Barcelona

Barcelona is the city of contrasts: The Mediterranean metropolis with its 1.5 million inhabitants offers not only Art Nouveau but also award-winning skyscraper architecture

Let’s have an Apertivo in a vermouth bar: Barcelona’s favorite drink

Cool pub in a former garage: The “Auto Rosellón”…

…a top location for breakfast, lunch and dinner

More travel stories you can find here.

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Ciao, Lido!

Hardly any other place has such a longing potential as the city of Venice. Venice is the synonym for romance and mysticism, transfigured and described in literature and film. A tourist magnet that attracts millions of visitors every year, so that especially in the high season, the built on wooden poles lagoon city has long arrived at the edge of their capacity. But also in Venice there are contemplative retreats and oases of peace. One of them is the Lido. Known for the annual “Mostra internazionale d ‘arte cinematografica di Venezia” film festival, which will be held for the 75th time this year, the Lido has not really been known as a holiday destination so far. This, however, is about to change. A new beginning is planned, driven by a consortium of 21 hoteliers and business people. Unlike the rest of Venice, the Lido now relies on sustainable tourism, including alternative energies and environmental regulations as well as WWF-funded renaturation: The Lido is now green.

Morning idyll on the deserted beach. While the sand in the north of the Lido is rather dark due to the current, the beach in the southern part of the Lido is white and fine-sanded

Also at 8 o’clock in the morning the world is still fine in the Lido. The first swimmers have long pulled their tracks in the sea with the rising sun. The Adriatic Sea has 20 degrees during my visit in mid-April and is therefore surprisingly warm for the season. Two ramblers walk their dogs over the gray sand alley. Otherwise, I have the beach almost to myself. The season officially starts in May. The preparations for this have now been completed. That’s a good thing, since the winter has washed a lot of plastic surfaces and other dross to the shore.

The Venetian lion watches over everything

I walk past the legendary Grand Hotel des Bains, which has been closed since 2010 and has been waiting to be revived in its enchanted private park, just like Sleeping Beauty. On the main boulevard – the Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta – around this time the first shutters are ran up. Chairs and tables are moved in front of the cafes, pasticcerias, gelaterias and bars, there is a lot of activity, the dishes clatter and there is a smell of freshly brewed espresso in the air. The Lido is like a village where everyone knows everyone: “Ciao, come stai?” The hustle and bustle has also caught the lagoon side early in the morning: Vaporetti or water taxis with commuters land or take off, because many Lidenzer work in San Marco or on the mainland.

The water taxi will take you to San Marco within ten minutes

Just a few minutes walk from the sea and lagoon lies my hotel, the Ausonia & Hungaria. A jewel of Art Deco, built in 1907 with an impressive, partly tiled façade. The Lido is known for its Art Nouveau architecture, which has been represented here since the work of the Austrian Habsburgs. Until then I knew the Gothic architecture of Venice with its Byzantine influences, but I am equally fascinated by the many Art Nouveau villas of the Lido. By the way, it is worthy to explore these architectural pearls by bike.

MyStylery on tour: The Lido can be easily explored by bike. The only twelve kilometers long island measures at the narrowest point just 300 meters, at the widest point 1.5 kilometers

By taxi – one of a total of twelve island taxis – I drive to the only golf club in Venice, the Circolo Golf Venezia in the south of the island. In the rickety Mercedes, he had already coached George Clooney and Michelle Pfeiffer over the Lido, the driver tells me proudly. Clooney, who flies by helicopter from his villa on Lake Como to the annual film festival taking place from August to September, has not yet played on the 18-hole golf course. Instead did Edward Duke of Windsor in the 1930s, while the reason for his renunciation of the English crown, the divorced American Wallis Simpson, was sitting in the luxury hotel Gritti Palace in San Marco, waiting for him. Whether the Duke was also enthusiastic about this perfectly into the landscape integrated place? Built in 1928 on the 16th-century fortifications, the golf course is flanked by mature trees and offers breathtaking views of the idyllic Lido landscape.

Insidertip: You’ll find the most popular beach Bagni Alberoni in the South of the island

From here, it is a stone’s throw to the most popular beach of the Lidenzer, the Bagni Alberoni. Nestled in the WWF under nature conservation and supervised, 30 hectares of area with dune landscapes and pine forests, the beach here is white and has fine sand. And just like in the morning I again enjoy a nearly deserted beach, look at the big ships that anchor in front of the Venetian lagoon and watch the waves. It’s hard to believe you’re here in Venice but also seemingly so far away.  BvH

View from the renatured dune landscape on beach and sea

Crumbling plaster on the facade of the former hotel legend Grand Hotel des Bains. An investor was found. Only the beginning of the extensive renovation is uncertain

Cafés, restaurants and shops line the main boulevard of the Lido, the Gran Viale

I also find the typical Venice vibe on the Lido: on my discovery tour I pass numerous bridges and canals

Vegetable shop with beautifully arranged products

Pearls of architecture

Byzantine Gothic meets Art Nouveau

Nice detail: The wooden decorations on the roof

I particularly like the rose-colored facade of Villa Anna Maria

Bridge railing in Art Deco: Beautiful!

Elegant gate with Art Deco elements

And another pearl of architecture on the Gran Viale

The baroque church of San Nicolo is located in the north of the Lido and helped the Venetians to secure the entrance to the lagoon. In the event of hostile attacks, the church bells were rung, warning the Venetians. The adjoining monastery is now the seat of the European Inter-University for Human Rights and Democratisation

At the widest part of the Lido – in the south of the island – between 1909 and 1911 the airport “Aeroporto di Venezia-Lido Giovanni Nicelli” was built in the most beautiful Art Deco, with a runway on lawn. The back then developed luxury hotels Excelsior and Grand Hotel des Bains were thus faster to reach. 1926 started the first scheduled flight from Vienna to Venice…

…praised by the BBC as the world’s most beautiful airport, the airport today is used by small private planes and helicopters

The Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria is a four-star hotel restored with a love to detail…

…In the coming year, work on the building, which is under monumental protection, is scheduled to be completed. Tip: Book an treatment at the hotel’s Asian-inspired “Lanna Gaia” Spa

Being a gondolier once

I’ve always wanted to know what it’s like to maneuver a gondola. In the Nautico San Marco I get a small introduction including practical testing by experienced Gondolieri. (Bookings on Remiera San Marco). I notice: Looks easy, but requires years of training and body feeling. One leans forward slightly, while the outer arm pulls out and the inner arm leads the rudder. Got it?

View into the boat harbor of the Nautico San Marco: The boats are also used in the historic regatta “Ragata Storica”, which takes place every year in September. My “trainer” Tarsilo is one of the most successful regatta participants and has won the Ragata Storica 15 times

The golf club „Circolo Golf Venezia“:

After a round trip over the 18-hole course, you can enjoy excellent lunches in the restored red-clinker stables

The ‘Cradle’ of Venice is located on the Lido: Malamocco is not only the oldest part of Lido, it is the oldest part of Venice

Stroll through the small streets and inhale the atmosphere!

The foundations of the Relais Alberti,, today a twelve-room boutique hotel, date back to 1450. Built by the Florentine banking family Alberti, Relais Alberti, located in the center of Malamocco, is my personal highlight. For a year and a half under new management, it offers cooking classes with local dishes and ingredients from the hotel’s vegetable garden.

Elegantly furnished with partly antique Murano chandeliers: Relais Alberti

Here it also tastes the Hollywood celebrities: A dinner in the restaurant Quattro Fontane I can highly recommend. Tired heads will find a nice room in the associated hotel

The Quattro Fontane menu: beetroot, buffalo mozzarella and Parma ham…

…followed by vegetable risotto…

…and beef fillet. Simply delicious!

Buon Appetito!

The five-star hotel Excelsior has 197 rooms and suites…

…and the only hotel pool on the Lido, overlooking the sea

View from the Lido di Venezia to San Marco

Salute with a Bellini! Lido, I’ll come back

Bay the way:

Since 1932 a magnet for the public and one of the most important international film festivals: „Mostra“ – the Venice International Film Festival.

Contact Green Lido:

veneziaeilsuolido.it

Info Biennale May 26 – November 25 2018:

labiennale.org

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‘Zum Schwarzen Kameel’: A stylish classic of the Viennese gastronomy*

A trip to Vienna without visiting the restaurant ‘Zum Schwarzen Kameel’ (‘Black Camel’) simply doesn’t work out. Legendary and elegant are the words that describe the ‘Black Camel’ very well, one of the classics of the Viennese gastro-scene, which is still pretty hip. Tourists feel magically attracted to the place and sit outside even during this season in the so-called ‘Schanigarten’ under radiant heaters with a glass of two eights of wine. But the truly hip-factor are the Viennese people themselves, who love this institution and like to come by for an after-hour drink at the food stall and enjoy their lives at deafening, surrounding noise.

Still present: the logo of the black camel, which has been designed and drawn by the painter Georg Waldmüller in the 19th century

Already founded in 1618 as a spice shop by Johann Cameel, the ‘Black Camel’ is located in the middle of the first district, less than five minutes apart from the Stephansdom. In the beginning of the 20th century the house in the Bognergasse has been rebuild. And the current interior still dates back to this time. Wood paneling, the showcases, the bar and especially the furnishings of the restaurant are hundred years old. A historical gem with its beautifully Art Nouveau.

I choose from the patisserie: Sachertorte (Sacher cake), apple strudel and raspberry tart and a delicious Darjeeling-Tea

The filled ‘Semmeln’ (sandwiches) of the ‘Black Camel’ were already popular at grandfather’s time. If you prefer quietness and coziness go to the adjacent restaurant, and you’ll indulge in Art Nouveau interior and order something from the in-house – incidentally delicious – patisserie. Or you choose from the menu: from roast beef to goose liver, caviar or bio-salmon: bon appetite or how you would say in Vienna: An Guadn! BvH

Allegedly Ludwig van Beethoven already enjoyed a Green Veltliner with a ham sandwich at this place*

The name of the restaurant dates back to the name of its founder Johann Cameel, who opened a spice shop in 1618*

The menu changes on a monthly basis. There are additional, daily menus that are offered in the afternoon and evening*

Restaurant-institution Erna Lenhardt presents the ‘Beinschinken-Semmel’ (ham and fresh-grated horseradish sandwiches) – a snack-classic. For over 50 years the ‘Beinschinken’ (ham) is produced after a family recipe*

Art Nouveau at its best

Looking for some christmas gifts? ‘Zum Schwarzen Kameel‘ includes an extensive wine store with a wine list of 800 national and international wines plus a deli*

The restaurant* …

… surrounded in a beautiful Art Nouveau-ambiance

The legendary pub ‘Zum Schwarzen Kameel’ is located in the middle of the old city of Vienna

Contact:

Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Bognergasse 5
1010 Vienna, Austria

www.kameel.at

Featured photo and pics marked* by ‘Zum Schwarzen Kameel’

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