First impression of Warsaw: A lot of high buildings!

How did you get the idea to spend a weekend in Warsaw, my friend asked me surprised. The capital of Poland doesn’t really count to the top tips among the European destinations and is rather rarely visited by travelers. But Warsaw is a truly positive surprise and as a city trip highly recommended.

The Cultural Palace – Pałac Kultury i Nauki – the landmark of the city and a considerable Palazzo Prozzo

Once you get closer to Warsaw’s center you will first pass concrete wasteland that rather reminds of Berlin-Marzahn or Hamburg-Mümmelmannsberg. As in all former countries of the Eastern bloc the socialistic construction eternalized itself in the monumental buildings, especially in the Cultural Palace, which virtually stands out of the Warsaw skyline. The building that has been built in gingerbread style was once a present of Stalin to Poland and therefore still counts as sign of oppression for many Polish people today. For sure an imposing construction. It is especially the old town that fascinated me from the beginning of my trip. Warsaw’s center has been nearly completely destroyed during the Second World War. Only in the following decades the historical houses were reconstructed with a lot of love for detail.

Warsaw, the underestimated metropolis. Stare Miasto – the Old Town

The Polish capital is stronger connected to the era of the Second World War than any other city. Warsaw and its mainly Jewish inhabitants have suffered immeasurably under the terror of the Nazis. It was a special need to give me an idea of the former Warsaw Ghetto and its extent. Today bronze plates paved in walkways remind of the Ghetto wall, which stretched over three square kilometers in the district of Wola from 1940 onwards. A visit to the Museum of the Warsaw Uprising ‘Powstania Warszawskiego’ also gives a comprehensive impression of this gloomy chapter of Poland’s history. Here, the story is reproduced in a multimedia and impressive way.

Beautiful sightseeing and charming alley in the Old Town

After the museum visit and dispute of history I now particularly notice the beauty of Warsaw. Especially in the neighborhoods of Mostowa and Stare Miasto, with their filigreed, neoclassical and baroque house-facades. Everywhere you will find small cafés that invite you to linger. One drinks tea, coffee latte or one of the craft beers brewed in Poland, before I visit the memorial site of the composer Frédéric Chopin, where the heart of the Polish national composer is kept. Speaking of Chopin: fans of his music are recommended to see one of the open-air piano concerts that take place from May to September in Łazienki Park.

Trendy restaurant in the Mirow district: The ‘Winosfera’

It is well known that culture increases appetite for more. Those who love the hearty Polish cuisine are well served in traditional restaurants such as ‘Dawne Smaki’. In Warsaw, however, a young and modern culinary scene has also been established, such as restaurant ‘The Elephant’, which has recently been launched by Mystylery. The ‘Winosfera’ in the district Mirow is also very popular with its extensive range of wines. For a small drop-off, go to the ‘Panorama Sky Bar’ of the Marriott Hotel: simply enjoy great cocktails and the 360-degree view of the skyline of Warsaw. Then I fall tired into the bed of my hotel, the Sofitel Victoria in Warsaw’s Old Town. A smartly designed hotel with excellent service: I will certainly come back soon! BvH

The boulevard ‘Nowy Swiat’ is part of the former royal route and today counts to one of the great historic avenues of Warsaw’s Old Town

How to get to Warsaw:

From Berlin the best and fastest way is to go by plane with Air Berlin or by train in 5.5 hours

Today declared as World Cultural Heritage of Unesco: The Old Town of Warsaw

The Saint Kasimir Church on the ‚Ulica Freta‘ street

The ‘Ulica Mostowa’, with its colorful house-facades and cobblestones, looks as if time had stopped here

The Barbakane (town wall) was built in 1548 and is located at the transition from the Old Town to the New Town. At the beginning of the 15th century, the New Town, the district of the artisans, was founded

The Royal Castle at the Castle Square

The ‘Plac Zamkowy’ place with the Warsaw Castle

The Cultural Palace seems almost omnipresent. It just appears everywhere, no matter from where you look

Modern skyscrapers occurrence all over Warsaw – like the 220 meters high Warsaw Spire-Tower, which was still under construction during my visit

The Museum of the Warsaw Uprising ‚Powstania Warszawskiego‘:

Here, the story is reproduced in a multimedia and impressive way

In the Warsaw Ghetto, from 1940 until the deportation in the extermination camps, 450,000 people lived under the most adverse conditions. Today bronze plates paved in walkways remind of the Ghetto wall, which stretched over three square kilometers in the district of Wola

The Nozyk Synagoge in the ‘Ulica Twarda’ built in the style of neo-Romanesque neo-Byzantium in 1902, was used by the Nazis as a camp in 1941. The building was restored in 1977. It is the only pre-war synagogue in Warsaw

The only preserved street of the former Warsaw Ghetto in Mirow is the ‘Ulica Prozna’. Up to a few years ago, the bullet holes were still visible in the facades, which now shine in new splendor…

… Here, a young new scene now established, with many street cafés and galleries, such as the ‚Galeria Velt‘ and the Café ‚Prozna‘

Pretty hip: Warsaw reminds of the Berlin scene in some parts of the city and its street cafés

The halls of Mirowska: In these historical market halls you will find the true Poland. Fixed prices are rather an exception. May the bargaining begin!

Warsaw, what a beautiful city!

The main street of the New Town ‘Ulica Freta’ was built at the end of the 14th century and was once the trade route from Warsaw to the north

Those who love the hearty Polish cuisine are well served in traditional restaurants such as ‘Dawne Smaki’

In the garden of the restaurant ‚Dawne Smaki‘ you will be able to escape the big city and to enjoy Polish Piroggen – stuffed pastries. For dessert they serve fresh fruits with whipped cream

Nikolaus Kopernikus-monument on the ‘Krakowskie Przedmieście’ street

The Holy Cross Church on ‘Krakowskie Przedmiescie’ street …

The heart of Frédéric Chopin, which has been pickled in French cognac, has been resting in a pillar of the Holy Cross Church since 2010. The inscription on the memorial tablet reads: “For where your treasure is, there is your heart.”

What a beautiful light incident on the altar

Dziekuje – Thank you!

Warsaw doesn’t really count to the top ten of European hotspots. Wrongly, in my view!

Off to Warsaw!

Merken

Merken

Merken

The post A perfect day in Warsaw appeared first on My Stylery.

How about a hot chocolate with whipped cream at Café Hawelka for breakfast?

There’s nothing more beautiful than sitting in a Viennese coffee house. And this also applies for breakfast. There are lots of those historical institutions such as the Café Central or the Café Landtmann where you will find lots of tourists queuing up and patiently waiting in front of the doors of those coffee houses, especially now during the winter season. This is the exact reason why you should avoid those cafés and instead rather go to places like the Tirolerhof or to Café Hawelka in the first district where you will find the real Viennese people. You can also have a very nice but rather more modern breakfast at places like Café Francais or Ulrich. But now it’s time for my very well and in advance prepared cultural program! Let’s go visit Sisi and Franz Josef!

The representative home of Empress Sisi and Emperor Franz Josef I: Schloss Schönbrunn in Vienna

A visit to castle Schönbrunn is – even for less romantics  – definitely an excursion destination worth seeing. With an audio guide the “Grand Tour” will lead you through 44 staterooms of the palace. Visitors acquire history knowledge as well as small anecdotes about the royal life at the time of the great Empress Maria Theresia and of the legendary Empress Sisi. Wonderful! Worthwhile is a following walk through the castle garden, no matter the weather.

Also during winter a feast for the eyes: the park of castle Schönbrunn

Everyone coming to Vienna in the near future will experience Christmas magic all over the city. In front of castle Schönbrunn you will find one of the many cosy and inviting Christmasmarkets of Vienna. The Christmasmarket in front of the town hall of Vienna fascinates with its thousands and thousands of little lights that are installed where ever you go. My personal favorite under all markets takes place at Spittelberg, which you will find in the seventh district. The market with its little unique, baroque houses coils itself through the parallel resided Kirchberggasse, Gutenberggasse and Spittelberggasse. Whilst strolling through the Burggasse I get inspired by the small, individual shops and I rummage for original clothes in shops like Goldstück-Wiener Kreation and the Conceptstore Burggassse 24.

Baroque facades wherever you go: after hot, delicious negus at my favorite Christmasmarket at Spittelberg I’m walking towards the inner city centre

Did you know that Vienna is also an Eldorado for fans of antiquities? Especially in the seventh district like at Siebensterngasse you will find lots of small merchants with trash and art with affordable prices. However it well get much more expensive in the city centre where you will find lots of antique dealers at Dorotheergasse. A must for every collector is the legendary auction house Dorotheum, a mecca for art where you can find objects of all epochs and, of course, their according price categories. Nevertheless: the inspiration is for free.

In the famous auction house Dorotheum you can purchase pictures, silver and jewellery for direct sale on the second floor

Visiting the famous Naschmarkt is always a must when I visit Vienna. Ideally under the week because on Saturdays its usually very crowded. (By the way: the Naschmarkt is closed on Sundays, but the little restaurants next to it are still open). For lunch I choose one of them, called the On Market, where I enjoy its delicious Asian fusion kitchen. Afterwards I walk towards the city centre with its Christmassy light installations, I amble along the dandified streets Kohlmarkt, Graben and Habsburgergasse. And it’s just magically!

Christmassy light installation along the dandified streets Kohlmarkt, Graben and Habsburgergasse. Pure magic!

How about a little rest? A great tip is the ‘Sky Bar’ on the roof of department store Steffl at Kärtner Straße from where I enjoy the view over the housetops of Vienna. Whilst drinking a cup of tea I enjoy the colourful patterns of the Stephansdom in the light of the sinking sun.

View from the noble department store Steffl and its ‘Sky Bar’ over the roofs of Vienna – in the background the mountains

What luck! In the evening I finally get to see the Wiener Philharmoniker (Vienna philharmonic orchestra), which has always been a dream of mine. I have tickets for a concert with world-class musicians who accompany pianist Rudolf Buchbinder at the Wiener Konzerthaus. What an awesome evening with music by Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Grieg and Tschaikowsky! For dinner I recommend one of the most fashionable restaurants you will currently find in town: The Brasserie ‚The Bank‘ at the Park Hyatt Hotel. The name says it all: in a former ticket hall of a bank the guests dine in finest art nouveau ambient. On the menu you will find delicious dishes such as Beef Tatar or Tagliatelle with fresh truffles. Everyone who still doesn’t have enough goes onwards to the panorama bar ‚Das Loft‘ of the Hotel Sofitel which guarantees a spectacular view over the Donau, Prater and the inner city. The service could be better, nevertheless the Cosmopolitan is perfectly mixed. I let the day pass and already know that I will come back to Vienna very soon.  BvH

Cecilie and I in a joyous expectation before the beginning of the concert of the Wiener Philharmoniker at the Wiener Konzerthaus

Tip for Vienna:

Book your Tickets for museums and concerts online in advance! Thereby you avoid queues and you can plan your trip more efficient!

The legendary Café Hawelka with his – framed – founder Leopold Hawelka; always the cavalier with a sunflower in his hand

Schönbrunn Palace in its baroque splendor

Apparently this is the Grand Gallery – the baroque hall of castle Schönbrunn – where imperator Franz Josef I. asked his Sisi for her hand. Who would have said no?

In these rooms of Schönbrunn the great Maria Theresia already resided

Christmas Market infront of Schloss Schönnbrunn

Beautiful shop in the 50s look: Goldstück in the seventh district …

… with „Wiener Kreationen“ (The “Viennese Creations”) …

… dresses out of chequered and flowered fabric – all handmade

Small finds for every taste at ‘Goldstück’

Vienna totally hip

The grey painted walls at restaurant ‚On Market‘ are decorated with colorful panels with flashily, graphical patterns. Even the opulent ceiling light consists out of fabric

Perfect and hip location especially for lunch: restaurant ‘On Market’. The food – for example avocado-mango maki …

… or cocos-curry-noodles with mussels – tastes delicious and is also affordable

The Viennese Naschmarkt with its fruits and vegetable stands – happy sellers inclusive

Magnificent evidence of the past:

… the houses of baroque and art nouveau at the Naschmarkt

Original: Conceptstore Burggasse 24 …

… Here you will find unusual clothes and accessories …

Snack and drinks will be served at the bar. A heating stove provides cosiness in living room atmosphere. Store Burggasse 24 – very cool!

Vienna, only you …

Gloriously: The Stephansdom festively illuminated!

Door detail with imperial ornaments

Shopping mall Palais Ferstel in the inner town centre with its inviting gastronomy and its noble shops

Vienna and the Christmas Market infront of the townhall! Beautiful, isn’t it?

In-Restaurant The Bank at the Park Hyatt Hotel …

… where I enjoyed a yummy tartar

Lots of marble, elegant opulence and heavy lustre at ‘The Bank’

A final cocktail at ‘The Loft’ with a spectacular view over the Donau, Prater and the inner city

Bye bye Vienna!

Merken

Merken

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That’s me on the roof terrace of the Nomad, one of my favorite restaurants in Marrakech

My first encounter with Marrakech was 22 years ago. Back then, I shot a report for the TV channel Premiere (now ‘Sky’), about a gigantic luxury villa in the Palmeraie, which is owned by the fashion designer Giorgio Armani and has already been rented by movie diva Elizabeth Taylor. Idyllically located, beautifully furnished, with a pool in the garden and a view of the Atlas Mountains and the adjacent property of Yves Saint Laurent. Marrakech has always had a special fascination, prominent names like old-rocker Mick Jagger and style icon Diana Vreeland have left their marks here. I fell in love with this city and, since then, have always returned enthusiastically. Recently this past Easter weekend.

One of the green courtyards of Riad El Cadi

Now is the perfect time of the year for a break in the city of cultural contrasts with its African, Arab and Berber traditions: during the day the sun warms (if it comes out) at 25 degrees Celsius – then the day can already start with an open-air breakfast. The best way of doing so is on a roof terrace with view over the rooftops of Marrakech. For example, in the Riad El Cadi, a with Moroccan antiques decorated boutique hotel, which is run by the Berliner Julia Bartels. She inherited the complex of seven houses of her father, the former German Ambassador of Morocco in 2003. And this is how a lawyer became a hotelier. Riad El Cadi is located in the exciting Medina but is still an oasis of calm. For something a bit more luxurious, I recommend the Riad El Fenn, that was opened in 2004 by the art ambitious founder of Marrakech’s Biennale, Vanessa Branson – sister of the millionaire entrepreneur Richard Branson – and is one of the most popular tourist attractions.

The ultra-chic rooftop of the Riad El Fenn with its inviting seating areas and sun shades. In the El Fenn a very nice concept store opened most recently with an adjoining restaurant where people tired of tajine can also eat pasta

Riad El Fenn is a little gem among the riads, the rooms are partly equipped with camel leather tiles, each room is individually designed

Marrakech has become a true oriental fairy tale, especially in the old city, the medina, which labyrinthine streets invite more to random findings rather than targeted searches. My tip: Invest in a guide that leads you through the souks. Inform yourself in advance of destinations and addresses and what you want to see. Whoever has the time, can just drift. This is the best way to explore the Medina and surrender to its charm. One of my favorite places in the souks is Rahba Kedima. Here, the dealers present basket- and leather goods, spices and argan oils and provide mediums against mosquitoes, moths or sleeping problems. At the end of the square lies the famous Café des Epices, opposite is my favorite, the Nomad, on which you can enjoy the best lunch on the roof terrace. Underneath is a pretty and small shop, where modern design and ceramics are sold.

In the square Rahba Kedima I bought an embroidered bag and placemats decorated with colorful tassels. Of course I did quite successfully haggled as haggling is part of the oriental shopping mentality

Also, the carpet dealers’ neighborhood lies adjacent to the Rahba Kedima square. If you wanted to buy a carpet, a Beni Ourain for example, you should definitely compare the prices. For me, the best of all carpet dealers are the Soufiane brothers. Hidden, so that you can hardly find them on your own, you call beforehand and arrange a meeting point. Entering Soufianes house, you have arrived in paradise of carpets: antique and new Berber carpets or Soufianes own carpet design – the prices are fair and the goods will be delivered right to the front of your door.

Carpet fans will be spoiled for choice at Soufiane’s place

In Marrakech a day goes by in a flash. Suddenly it’s time for a sundowner, and that I recommend on the rooftop of the no longer new, but still wonderful Kosybar at Place des Ferblantiers. Here, one is closest to the snowy peaks of the High Atlas and meanwhile can watch the storks that have built their nests on the ancient walls of the city. More romance is hardly possible.

View to the snowy peaks of the High Atlas and the storks that have built their nests on the ancient walls of the city

It’s also romantic in the evenings at the restaurant Dar Yacout. A legend in the Marrakech-gastronomy, mainly due to the pretty interiors designed by Bill Willis. However, the food quality is not really in the price-benefit-ratio. (Menu 700 DH = 70 Euro per person). For someone who likes it a bit more down to earth, hip and trendy, I suggest the Le Jardin to enjoy delicious chicken skewers (110 DH), grilled sea bream (150 DH) or lamb tajine with prunes (120 DH). Who can’t get tired of shopping can find here on the 1st floor at Norya Ayron individual caftans and beautiful clutches, the perfect outfit for Marrakech’s nightlife. This, however, mainly takes place in the New Town, Guéliz – but this another fairy tale from 1001 Nights. BvH

How about a romantic Candlelight-Dinner directly at the pool of the restaurant Dar Yacout?

It is still one of the most beautiful restaurants in Marrakech

Marrakech – the Pearl of the South

The restaurant Le Jardin is the perfect place for lunch or dinner …

Watch your step …#turtlescrossing

Delicious at Le Jardin are the brochettes: barbecue skewers – here with chicken and vegetables

Le Jardin is a melange of green tones: turquoise tiles and lime green colored walls plus the house “Jungle”. There are also small rooms with open fires for colder nights

On the first floor at Le Jardin Norya Ayron sells her individual creations …

… like this colorful silk caftan …

… or these casual leather Clutches: my newest summer must-have!

An oriental Fairy Tale

I call that service:

The Nomad offers sun hats to the guests for the duration of their stay

Lunch at Café Nomad: I love the appetizer plate ‘mezze’ ( 70DH = approx 7 €) . A glass of Rosé (highly recommended are Moroccan wines ) and a perfect view to the colorful market

The Souks in the Medina:

A big chaos, a colorful world of commodities without fixed prices …

Here, haggling is part of the shopping mentality

In the carpet kingdom of Ismail Soufiane: He offers antique and new carpets. You can get here also the stylish Beni Ourain Berber carpets

Ismail served freshly prepared mint tea – a sign of Moroccan hospitality

Shop’til you drop

Leather poufs currently experience a style-revival. I remember that my parents already had Moroccan leather poufs in their living room

At the Kif-Kif shop you can find beautiful home accessories und textiles

The souks of Marrakech are the Mecca for every jewelry freak: Here I bought exceptional pieces such as bracelets in sterling silver

Tour guide Achmed (on the right) also explains the attractions, such as the former Medersa Ben Youssef …

… with its wonderful tiles …

… And the fantastic facade ornaments. Incidentally, the Medersa is a Unesco World Heritage Site, as well as the entire Medina

Magnificent antique door at the Riad El Cadi

Breakfast on the rooftop of Riad El Cadi …

… and amazing antique details

So beautiful: A Sundowner on the rooftop terrace of the Kosybar

Good night, Marrakech!

Tips:

Best Tour guide for the Medina with its attractions and the Souks is Achmed: +212-661088938.
You should know that the guides like to show you shops, where they are involved in sales

All roads lead – in this case – to Djamaa El Fna , the square of the hanged , where the exciting nightlife of Marrakech awakens at nightfall latest. Tip: If you get lost, simply ask for “La place” …

Contacts:

Soufiane Zarib
24 Db Amseghi Sidi Ishak
Marrakech
+212-661853487

Riad El Cadi
86/87 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, Dabachi
Marrakech +212 5243-78098
www.riyadelcadi.com

Riad El Fenn
Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, 2
Marrakech
+212 5244-41210
www.el-fenn.com

Kosybar
Place des Ferblantiers، Rue de Berrima
Marrakech
+212 5243-80324
www.kosybar.com

Le Jardin
32 Route Sidi Abdelaziz
Marrakech
+212 5243-78295
www.lejardin.ma

Nomad
Rahba Kedima
Marrakech
+212 5243-81609
www.nomadmarrakech.com

Dar Yacout
79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi
Marrakech
+212 5243-82929
www.daryacout.com

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The Christkindlmarkt am Rathaus and the sparkling sea of lights

I just came back from Vienna and I can only say: what a wonderful and beautiful city. Especially now during the Christmas season it seems like a magical atmosphere you cannot get rid of. Strolling over the Christmas markets in front of historical backdrops like the town hall or castle Schönbrunn, warming oneself up at café Central or café Landtmann whilst drinking a hot chocolate (of course with cream!), marvelling at the festively decorated streets Herrengasse or Graben … Vienna offers a lot more than that. I will tell you my favourite tips.

The ‚Motto am Fluss’ in the ship station of the Donau river with restaurant and café

For breakfast go to the Donau. The café ‚Motto am Fluss‘ is perfect for every late riser – you can have breakfast until 4 pm and meanwhile enjoy the view on the water of the river. The foundation for my upcoming day: scrambled eggs with homemade bread and yummy-guacamole.

Scrambled eggs with homemade bread and yummy-guacamole

From there I start my shopping tour: I’m heading towards the big streets like Tuchlauben and small side streets around the Stephansplatz. It’s a must see, also because of the impressive lightening. Tip: have a look at boutique ‘Inked’ with labels like Helmut Lang, Rag & Bone, Vince or Vanessa Bruno.

Inked Boutique in the center of Vienna

At Albertina you can see the Edvard Munch exhibition until the 24th of January 2016 (later more). Even the Habsburger Prunkräume (the Habsburg’s rooms) can be compared with an opulent orgy and are a great alternative to the Sissi apartments in the Hofburg, where you’ll always find long queues.

Mecca of art: The Albertina

After so much art I need a snack. No, I’m NOT going to opposite Café Mozart or in the neighbouring Café Sacher: I choose the Tirolerhof, a true insider tip and one of the last institutions under the coffee houses, in which one will meet true Viennese people. Including grumpy waiters.

A Viennese coffee house legend: The Tirolerhof

Apropos: my Viennese friend Yella recommends the tiny restaurant ‚Zum Johann‘ at Lerchenfelderstraße, the demarcation line between seventh and eighth district. There, ex-advertiser and passionate man-in-the-kitchen Gregor Panis serves delicious small dishes, including small talk and meetings with the regular guests. And of course everyone is from Vienna. Tip: call and order in advance.

‘Zum Johann‘: fine cuisine at only 20 square meters. Since one year Gregor Panis serves Austrian specialities – prior from the ‘Bucklige Welt’ and selected wines. Every Wednesday is mother’s day. Then Gregors mother cooks, for example stuffed peppers

‘Gemüsepfanne’ with zucchini, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, parsnips, tomatoes, squash and freshly picked rosemary. Served with yogurt sour cream: Delicious!

My trip continues by walking into the seventh district, the home of the youngsters and those young at heart in chic old buildings. Here you’ll find trendy cafés and restaurants, nice little shops and a harmonic Christmas market at Spittelberg that goes around Stift- and Gutenberggasse. I stroll through the Burggasse and discover Eva-Maria Thalhammers pop up-store at Gutenberggasse, who presents antiques and beautiful things in shabby-chic atmosphere until the end of December.

The purest treasure trove: Eva-Maria Thalhammer in her Pop Up-Store

At Westbahnstraße I find the Epicerie ‘Un Jour en France’ and the boutique ‘Comerc’ and so I end up in another café – yes, this is how it works when you’re in Vienna – the ‘Toma tu Tiempo’ with a Spanish menu and a small, cosy oven.

The Café ‘Toma tu Tiempo‘ in the Zieglergasse in the seventh district

The day ends like it started. Nearly. Because then I go to ‘Motto’ again. But this time I go to the newly renovated restaurant-dependence in the fifth district. Dining in ultra-chic ambient, drinking and dancing (later in the evening), elegant, hip people. The food (for example the curry with vegetables and bio-chicken or the three falafels) is simply delicious, although the service could be better. It was still a wonderful evening in a marvellous city. BvH

Behind an inconspicuous door you’ll find the legend of a restaurant: Motto. 2015 it was completely new designed and is now super trendy. Photo: Motto

The Motto, a place for night owls, who like to come for the legendary beef tatar or the baked ham pasta

Shabby chic, raw charm of industry and bare walls meet comfortable benches in a rich tone of green. Photo: Motto

A little bit of Spain in the seventh district …

… in the ‘Toma tu Tiempo‘

Having the honor

France is just around the corner on the Westbahnstraße: The Epicerie ‘Un jour en France‘

Rip, rip with the credit card at the ‘Comerc‘ Store

Eldorado for nostalgics in the antique shop on the Westbahnstraße

Pop Up-Store in the Gutenberggasse …

… with lovingly selected ancient artefacts and rarities

Vienna, only you …

There are lots of traditional Viennese Coffee Houses in the centre of the city, but only a few that aren’t tourist traps:

… exposed but somehow still hidden: the Café Tirolerhof. Not a really big name, no attraction, nearly an insider tip

The Habsburg’s rooms at the ‘Albertina‘. In addition, the Albertina contains one of the most important graphic collections in the world

Me and the tree: When Archduchess Henriette of Nassau-Weilburg, wife of Archduke Karl, was planning the first Christmas in the audience hall of her palatial residential palace, today the Albertina, she decided to continue with the Protestant custom of a “Grass Tree” in Vienna because of her six children

Hall of the Muses at Albertina

Since 2007, the Habsburg’s rooms radiate after renovation in new splendor

The ‘Spanish apartment’ was created in 1895 as a permanent residence of the Spanish royal family, who lodged here until 1918 during her frequent stays in Vienna

… Shall be the city of my dreams

One of the most stylish interior shops in Vienna: Eva-Maria Thonet in the first district

The Hofburg with the apartments of Empress Sissi

Impressive Christmas lights in the Inner City. Here: Graben …

… and the Herrengasse

Popular – and therefore well attended – the Christmas market in front of a historic backdrop: Schloss Schönbrunn. Tip: Avoid weekends and go during the week!

Just a perfect day!

Restaurant ‘Motto am Fluss‘ with outdoor deck …

… and Café …

In this furnace, the mega-delicious Marianne-bread is baked! Sooooo good!

And because MyStylery loves the ‘motto’ so much, here again is another view!

Bye bye ‘Motto’, see you soon Vienna!

Contacts:

Café Motto am Fluss
Franz Josefs Kai 2
1010 Wien
(Between Marienbrücke and Schwedenbrücke)
www. mottoamfluss.at

Motto
Schönbrunner Straße 30
1050 Wien
www.motto.at

Boutique Inked
Bauernmarkt 15 & 16
1010 Wien
www.inked.at

Albertina
Albertinaplatz 1
1010 Wien
www.albertina.at

Tirolerhof
Führichgasse 8
1010 Wien

Zum Johann
Lerchenfelderstraße 104
1080 Wien
www.zumjohann.at

Toma tu Tiempo
Zieglergasse 44
1070 Wien
www.tomatutiempo.at

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The 200 years old manor Le Manoir de Contres, built in the style of Louis XII, is nowadays a charming hotel with eights rooms and a separate pavilion

I love France! The language and culture, and not to forget the food! And when the best friends invite you for a weekend to France into the valley of the Loire to celebrate a special wedding day, then this is très chic and lets my heart leap with joy. Especially now in autumn when the nature turns into a blaze of color and the sun still caters for warm moments under blue sky.

Hotelier-couple Maria and Victor Orsenne, the ‘Chef de cuisine’*

About two hours by car in the southwest from Paris lies the Manoir de Contres, a family-run, down-to-earth hotel in a 200 years old, charming manor that is owned by Victor Orsenne and his wife Marie – the sister of my friend and host – and is ideally the trailhead for diverse trips into the cultural assets and small, idyllic places along the countryside of the Loire.

The terrace in the garden, beautiful for a breakfast in the morning sun, in the summer there’ll be BBQ for lunch, in the evening with an aperitif

Someone lucky starts the day with a coffee in the sun on the wonderful terrace of the Manoir de Contres. And listens to the small anecdotes, which Victor, the patron, has to tell, whilst enjoying homemade marmalade, delicious croissants and fresh fruits: how he, a French, got to know Maria, a native of Hamburg, in a hotel management school in the Swiss Lausanne. How both of them led two small boutique-hotels in Paris and someday asked themselves, whether life offers something new. When the manor in the little town Contres, which was previously inhabited, was on offer; the Orsennes didn’t hesitate long, renovated all eight rooms. Adieu metropolis, bonjour country life. This happened four years ago and was a good decision.

Whilst the fire place crackles, I look at the for the region typical, colorful ceiling paintings*

Because the Val de Loire in the heart of France is a popular travel-region, not only for gourmets and wine lovers, but also for fans of the French cuisine. More than 300 castles and fortresses – built by emperors, kings and the French aristocracy from different epochs – of which about 100 can still be visited, string together, like pearls on a cord.

The last summer flowers from the hotel’s internal park

At this time of the year the endless columns of bus-tourists already left, one has the region mostly for oneself. Famous is the Château de Chambord, former hunting castle of Louis XIV, which is the biggest château at the Loire under the renaissance castles with its 400 rooms, crenellation and towers on the largest park-area Europe’s with 5.440 hectares. But there’re also some real insider tips, in which one can amble along the halls just by oneself and seems to hear the haunting castle ghost giggling behind the screen. For example the Valençay or the castle Cheverny (more soon). Indeed there’s a numerous amount of castles that are lead and inhabited by aristocratic families since generations.

View on the one-hectare big park with its old tree population*

In order to get not sick of all the castles I recommend to narrow down the choice to a couple of castles – otherwise you’ll end up with a real castle-marathon: it’s best to focus on one to two castles per day. Then in the evening you’ll still be able to assign the castles that you saw during the day.

The restaurant of the Manoir de Contres, in which one can excellently dine*

Apropos evening: Victor, the Maître of the Manoir is a gifted cook and his magic arts at the stove are not only reserved for this hotel guests. We got spoiled by a salad of green beans and crayfish tails, followed by scallops with rose pepper, veal medallions in clear estragon sauce and the delicious potato gratin, which I ate. In conclusion goat cheese from the Loire valley and ‘Framboisier du Manoir’ out of white chocolate mousse with fresh raspberries. Accompanied by wonderful wines from the in-house, comprehensive cellar of the Manoir de Contres and its perfect, attentive service, which couldn’t be better even in four- or five-start-hotels: Savoir vivre! What else could you wish for? BvH

Et voilà, le menu:

Scallops with rose pepper …

… followed by veal medallion and potato gratin …

… and ‘Framboisier du Manoir’ out of white chocolate mousse with fresh raspberries. As you can see, I already have tried it

Bon appétit!

View from my room

The pavilion

Portal of the Manoir de Contres: this is where we sadly have to say ‘au revoir’!

Exclusive tips by Maria Orsenne …

… for a perfect day in and around Contres. How about a trip to the famous limestone caves, the so called ‘caves-troglodytiques’, in which different wineries store their wines, for example the winery  Monmousseau with its wonderful Crémants near Château de Chenonceau. The wine tastings take place inside the illuminated rock caves.

Learn more about the famous limestone caves: ‘caves-troglodytiques’

A friendly lunch address is the ‘Les Trois Marchands’ in Cour-Cheverny. From there you can drive onwards to the chocolate manufactory Max Vouché in Bracieux (near Chambord). On the weekend it’s worth to visit the Sunday market in Amboise between 8 am and 1.30 pm directly at the shore of the Loire with up to 200 market stands. What will you find there? Everything!

Lunch address: ‘Les Trois Marchands’ in Cour-Cheverny

More information: maxvauche-chocolatier

Château de Chambord, the biggest château at the Loire, with its 400 rooms, crenellation and towers on the largest park-area Europe’s Château de Chambord

Contact:

Le Manoir de Contres
23, Rue des Combattants d’Afrique en AFN
41700 Contres, France
www.manoirdecontres.com

Don’t miss:

The castle posts about Cheverny and Valençay. Soon on MyStylery!

Featured pic and pics marked* by Giacomo Morelli

The post Savoir Vivre in the Loire Valley appeared first on My Stylery.

The Blue Mosque, a dog and me: Hello Istanbul

The pulsing life, the movement, Istanbul fascinated me from the first moments. First of all there is the incredible location of the 14 million-inhabitant metropolis on two continents that impresses. 3000 years of history left their mark on the Bosphorus town. There is so much to discover- but where to go first? Of course there is the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque that come to my mind. But Istanbul has a lot more to offer.

Shop ’til you drop: The ‘Grand Bazaar’ has more than 4.000 shops

A boat tour along the Istanbul strait is for the daughter of a ship captain like me a clear MUST, to Asia and back to the Golden Horn please. For shopping victims like me it is obligatory to stroll through the oriental market ‘Grand Bazaar’. You absolutely need to schedule some time for this, as there are more than 4.000 shops on 30.000 square miles to visit. I am curious how the sultans in the Topkapi Palace resided and want to get enchanted by the grandest mosque the Sülemaniye. Conveniently those monuments of the old town on the historic peninsula lay in the district of Fatih, so it’s easy to combine these legs of my tour.

Streetlife in the Beyoğlu district, the hottest hood in Istanbul

The facing district Beyoğlu is the hottest borough of the moment, where the member club Soho House just opened its newest hotel (see “Soho House Istanbul: An oriental fairy tale palace“ on MyStylery). Here in Pera – that’s how the old European borough originally was called – a new art scene established with the ‘Istanbul Modern’ and ‘Pera- Museum’. There are many small cafes, galleries and shops, and not to forget the famous shopping street on which the historic tram drives.

Look at: https://mystylery.com/blog/2015/08/16/soho-house-istanbul-ein-palast-aus-1001-nacht/

You can find the most delicious breakfast with croissants that taste like in France at ‘Gram’. Everything is freshly prepared and the menu offers changing dishes. Chef and successful cookbook author Didem Şenol conjures fantastic Turkish- European crossover dishes from regional ingredients for instance warm goats cheese on eggplant and lentils – a truly culinary delight! I would like to highly recommend her branch at the Karaköy- District the ‘Lokanta Maya’ at this point. Culinary art at a high standard in a beautiful ambience.

Lunch- and breakfast spot: Gram, Mesrutiyet Caddesi, 107d in Pera, www.grampera.com

Help, I can’t decide with all the delicacies at the ‘Gram’!

The right address for Turkish Mocha or a Caffe Latte is the ‘Noir Pit’. Next to a tremendous selection of coffee specialties they also offer a variety of small snacks.

Have a coffee at the ‘Noir Pit’, Mesrutiyet Caddesi, 109a in Pera, www.noirpit.com

I love the small Cukurma-district, the antiques quarter offside the hectic ‘Istiklal Caddesi’ in Beyoğlu. It’s a pleasure strolling through the little alleys, past welcoming cafes and partially fallow buildings and then again the already refurbished objects in between like the small Boutique-Hotel ‘Corinne’ with a magnificent restaurant, and art gallery offer a nice surprise.

‘Corinne Hotel’, Kuloğlu Mh., Turnacıbaşı Cad Ayhan Işık 41, www.corinnehotel.com

Here you can also sit outside nicely: Boutique-Hotel ‚Corinne‘

Moving on past the Galata-tower into the direction of Karakoy, the quarter that just awakes from it’s deep slumber. Directly next to the jetties for big cruise ship emerges an interesting scene with chic restaurants for the hip audience. I initially wander trough ‘Fransiz Sokağı‘- the French street of the former Algerian quarter, which was renovated with the help of the French cultural institute, past little shops and cafes.

Popular to tourists and locals: ‚Fransiz Sokağı‘, the French street

Welcoming: Coffeeshop at the ‚Fransiz Sokağı‘

Giant boat infront of a small house: Jetty in the Karakoy district

I decide to have a relaxing lunch at the near, very popular ‘Karakoy Lokantasi’ which was recently furnished by the Turkish design company ‘Autoban’ with very cool tiles in turquoise. I order Turkish starters, so-called ‘Meze’: Hummus with flatbread, eggplant puree, shrimps marinated in coriander and garlic-yoghurt-cream. One should also taste the bulgur balls and the obligatory stuffed vine leaves. The only thing I could have forgone was the dowdy, bad service. But even that can damp my excitement for Istanbul in no way.  BvH

Unmotivated waiters in the otherwise beautiful ‘Karakoy Lokantasi’, Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mh., Kemankeş Cd 37a, www.karakoylokantasi.com

A MUST: Turkish starters, so-called ‘Meze’. Yummy!

Old Byzantium and Ottoman Empire

Ruin in Pera

A cat-city: Istanbul

A boat tour along the Istanbul strait: From Kadikoy to Eminons and back

Between Orient and Occident

Quite windy here! As it is, I have to hold my hat, so it doesn’t end up in the Golden Horn or Bosphorus

In Istanbul the religions live peacefully together. Here the Catholic Church St. Anthony …

… there is the ‘Neve Salom’-Synagogue. Both in the former European quarter Pera

There are a lot of inviting cafes in Pera

Not for calorie counters: Turkish delights like here on the ‚Istiklal Caddesi‘

There are many carpet dealers at the ‘Grand Bazaar’. The most talented (!) seller I met at ‘Rug & Rug’

I bought spices at the ‘Grand Bazaar’. Cooking at home – sounds like a plan

In the mood for a new hairstyle? Kuaför in the Pera district

Good to know:

English is not a matter of course:
A business card of your hotel can help to show the taxi driver where you want to go.

Worth seeing: the Topkapi Palace

By the way following tip saves time and nerves: at the Topkapi Palace I actually hired one of the guides who work there: Mustafa sneaked me past the sheer endless queue and explained – in perfect German – the whole palace including harem and armory to me. Since then I know that the word kiosk has its roots in the Turkish language. The length of the tour is negotiable and was absolutely worth its 50 €.

‘Lokanta Maya’, Kemankes Caddesi 35a, www.lokantamaya.com …

… there is great European-Turkish crossover cuisine

The post Istanbul, so cool! appeared first on My Stylery.