A perfect day on Fischland-Darß

Vacation in Germany
What: My favorite tips for sightseeing and more on the Baltic Sea Peninsula
Where: Ahrenshoop, Fischland-Darß

This is Fischland-Darß:

Fischland-Darß peninsula stretches over 45 kilometres in length and offers fine sandy beaches lined by  beautiful dune landscapes

I already heard and read a lot about the peninsula Fischland-Darß, the popular vacation region in the north of Germany, a very hip weekend destination – not only for Berliners – less than two and a half hours drive from the capital. Since I decided to cancel all my travel plans to other European countries because of Corona this year, the time had finally come: Off to the Baltic Sea, or more precisely, to Ahrenshoop, a picturesque village in the middle of the island.

A typical house with a thatched roof

Already at the end of the 19th century Ahrenshoop attracted numerous artists, including the painters Elisabeth von Eicken, Anna Gerresheim, Oskar Frenzel and Paul Müller-Kaempf. They founded an artists’ colony on the Darß, which attracted other artists, writers and sculptors to the 45-kilometre-long peninsula. Today, Ahrenshoop is still a place of art, with numerous galleries, the “Kunstmuseum” and the “Kunstkaten”, which in turn explains the magnetic attraction that Ahrenshoop exerts on VIPs of all stripes: Whether BossHoss singer Alec Völkel, the actor couple Anna Loos and Jan Josef Liefers or Germany’s former Federal President Joachim Gauck, they all love the new hotspot on the Baltic Sea coast. The fresh sea air, the wide beaches, the unique island location with the Baltic Sea on the west side and the “Darß-Zingster Bodden” chain on the east side also inspired me.

The Baltic Sea on the right, the Darß-Zingster Bodden chain on the left, in the front the hotel “Namenlos”

In Ahrenshoop the peninsula is so narrow that you can easily walk from the Bodden to the seaside. Or you can cycle the 28.5-kilometre route from the “Wilden West”-Beach to the historic Darßer Lighthouse in the north, past beautiful landscapes up to Prerow or Zingst.
Cycling enjoys great popularity here for good reason. Those who prefer to hike through the 786 square kilometres of the national park with the “Darßer Urwald”, a rustic forest, ride out on the beach or train stand-up paddling in the sea will find the ideal conditions at Fischland-Darß. (SUP rental for example at beach crossing eight in Ahrenshoop, 22 Euros per hour).

The 786 square kilometer national park on Fischland-Darß – a worthwhile destination even in autumn (Photo: Internet)

The Darß also has a lot to offer in terms of culinary delights. I enjoy an opulent breakfast in a beach chair, with a view over the sea from the terrace of my hotel “The Grand” in Ahrenshoop, which incidentally has a great rooftop bar with a panoramic view. The perfect address for sundowners and a glass of the Spanish rosé “Esmeralda” (10 Euros) – In times of Corona currently only possible with reservation; if you like, stay here for dinner and let the cool cooks of the “Wild Pots” spoil you. As sea air is known to stimulate the appetite, I’m ready for the delicious homemade cake in “Die Mühle” in the afternoon. The mill is idyllically situated in a large garden, where I order plum cake from the tin and “Landlust” apple spritzer under the watchful eye of curious sheep. In the cold season one sits comfortably in the large guest room of the mill. Friends of the Asian cuisine will love the hip “Mr. Hoshi”, the only Far Eastern restaurant on the island and a real spot for gourmets. They serve excellent Tom Kha Gai soup (12 Euros), followed by cod fillet (28 Euros); the view of the sea and the sunset is free of charge.

Sunset on the roof terrace of the chic restaurant “Mr. Hoshi” …

…where we feasted on scallops, prawns with baby spinach, truffles and stir-fried vegetables and tataki, beef in soy-ginger sauce

What I particularly liked in Ahrenshoop were the many houses under thatched roofs in the midst of beautiful gardens, which give the place a touching romanticism. The architecture here is very individual, far from the mainstream à la Sylt. If you stroll along the village street in Ahrenshoop, past the inviting cafés and small stores, it becomes clear that the island has nothing uniform. A casual, informal lifestyle reigns here. This unpretentiousness is probably the secret why Ahrenshoop and Fischland-Darß is and remains a place of longing for many. BvH

Sunsets like in the south

Info Fischland-Darß:

High in the north – in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania – lies the Baltic Sea peninsula Fischland-Darß between Rostock and Stralsund (Graphic: Internet)

Shopping in Ahrenshoop:

Ready to go shopping…

…in the nice shops on the Dorfstraße of Ahrenshoop…

The main institution of Ahrenshoop is the “Bunte Stube”: For ninety years, the red and white Bauhaus architecture has been a popular spot for artists and culture fans, who buy bestselling or regional literature in the well-stocked bookstore, the daily newspaper or buy arts and crafts

In the “Wohndiele” I find beautiful things for my Berlin home

Eating in Ahrenshoop:

How about a cup of tea in the lovely café  “Die Mühle”?

Here organic food is served…for example yummy plum cake from the tray with freshly whipped cream and a tasty “Landlust”-apple juice… 😉

Best location to chill out? The roof terrace of the hotel “The Grand”…

…with a panoramic view of the Bodden and the Baltic Sea

No vacation at the sea without freshly caught fish: “Matjes in a housewife-style” or a delicious pike-perch filet is what I like best in the “Räucherhaus”…

…For delicious smoked fish I go to the nearby, rustic snack bar “Zur Reuse”, a real insider tip

The famous “Zeesenboote” with their distinctive brown-red sails set sail in the port of Althagen. Since 2018, the Zeesenboot sailing has been a UNESCO world cultural heritage site. The boats leave daily from 10 a.m. (sailing time: 1.5 hours, tickets: children 8 Euros, adults 15 Euros, May to October). Good to know: The term “zeesen” is derived from the – today no longer practiced – catching technique. The sails were set against the wind, so the boat sailed across the wind and pulled a large net behind it.

Staying overnight on Fischland-Darß:

For example in “The Grand” in Ahrenshoop…

…from here you can enjoy the view of the Baltic Sea from many rooms

Beside various hotels, like “The Grand” or “Hotel Namenlos” you can also find pretty, privately run pensions and vacation apartments on Fischland-Darß, like the picturesque pension “Otty-Kaysel-Haus”, one of the founding houses of the former artists’ colony Ahrenshoop, located in an enchanted garden and still family-owned today

Art and Architecture on Fischland-Darß:

Art in elaborate architecture: In the art museum of Ahrenshoop, mainly artists with regional reference and the history of the place are shown

One of the famous “Kunstkaten” on Fischland-Darß

The boatmen’s church (Schifferkirche) of Ahrenshoop, which looks like the bow of a boat

Could be the home of Snow White and the seven dwarfs

Romantic, thatched houses in Ahrenshoop on Fischland-Darß

Motifs like painted … here again “Die Mühle”, the mill in Ahrenshoop from a different perspective

Bye, Fischland-Darß! Unfortunately, it’s time to say goodbye for MyStylery. The good news: I’ll be back!